fruit basket

I am having visions of a soft fruit basket of cotton yarn. It would have a square bottom and an octagon top. Well, maybe more of an octagon middle since by the top it might be quite circular unless given a bit of wire or something to keep the corners.

The plan, I think, starts with choosing a finished circumference in stitches that is an odd number time eight. The knitting would start with the same squares as before for the bottom. When the number of stitches is half the planned complete number, stop increasing on half of the increases while the others start increasing to the other side. I've been thinking that the increases should center around opposing sides, but perhaps on the same side of each edge would be better. And the more I ponder which is better the more I think it won't really hit an octagon shape at all. The first will go more to a boat shape and the second will continue to be square but will twist a bit as it goes. It really doesn't even need to have the increases change sides.

For a more rounded project, one could start a little earlier in the shaping and just decrease the frequency of increases along the lines that will be stopped. Patterning could be used to emphasis or even generate the octagonal shape, if that is desired...

It's a work in progress, of course, until something has been knit. And then there's always the second one.

Octopus toy

I thought of someone to give it to, so I can make a big octopus. Here it is finished and swimming along on the couch.


I started with the legs. The octopus legs are based on the coiled tube seen here. They need to be stuffed every inch or two while knitting. Starting at the tip of the tentacle:
Bind on 3 stitches. This is knit in the round.
Row 1: k1, yo, k2.
Row 2: k1, yo, kt (knit with stitch twisted), k to end.
Repeat row 2 until there are 12 stitches including the yo.
Row 10: k1, yo, kt, k3, k2tog, k5.
Repeat row 10 until the leg is long enough then cut the yarn and pass it through the stitches to hold them for later.

Twisting the other direction:
Bind on 3 stitches.
Row 1: k2, yo, k1.
Row 2: k until the yo, kt, yo, k1.
Repeat row 2 until there are 12 stitches.
Row 10: k5, k2tog, k3, kt, yo, k1.
Repeat row 10 until long enough then hold the stitches.


The twist wasn't the same size for each of these even though one is the reverse of the other. To complete 8 legs, I knit 2 each in each direction then arranged them how I liked with the smaller twists to the front and back and the bigger twists to the side. Join the legs together simply looping the yarn twice through each of 3 stitches on each leg.


Each leg has some stitches that look straight and some that seem to be on a diagonal. The legs are arranged so that the straight stitches are centered to the outside of the circle (which will become the top of the octopus) and the diagonal stitches are to the inside (which will be the bottom.)

Once connected into a circle, place the 2 unused stitches of the bottom plus one used stitch on either side on each leg onto knitting needles for 32 stitches. Starting between the back legs:
Row 1: k to end
Row 2: k3, (k2tog, k6) x3, k2tog, k2.
Row 3: with last stitch of row 2 (k2tog, k5) x4.
Row 4: k3, (k2tog, k4) x3, k2tog, k1.
Row 5: (k2tog, k3) x4.
Row 6: k2, (k2tog, k2) x3, k2tog
Row 7: (k2tog, k1) x3, k2tog.
Bind off the last 4 stitches by passing the yarn through each once front to back and once back to front and tying tightly. Knots on the inside will not show.

Place the unused stitches of the top on needles together with one on each side of the used stitches for 48 stitches. Starting between the back legs:
Row 1: k to end.
Row 2: (k6, pm (place marker), yo, k6, pm) x4.
Row 3: (yo after marker, k to 2nd marker) x4.
Row 4: k to 1st marker, (yo before marker, k to 2nd marker) x3, yo, k to 1st marker.
Row 5: (yo before marker, k to 2nd marker) x4.
Row 6: k to 1st marker, (yo after marker, k to 2nd marker) x3, yo, k to 1st marker.
Row 7-9: repeat row 4-6.
Row 10 and for a few rows: k80.

Decreases aren't done symmetrically. Instead, the middle is decreased for a few rows, then decreases are added to either side for a few rows. This continues until there are eight decreases. The decreases alternate between k2tog and ssk so that the decrease does not create a spiral. Here is an illustration showing the decreases. The arrow marks the middle (front) and the bar marks the back where rows start. On the 1st 3 decrease rows, the red decreases are made, on the 2nd 3, the blue, then green, purple, cyan.


Row 1 (red): k39, k2tog, k39.
Row 2 and all even rows: k.
Row 3: k39, ssk, k38.
Row 5: k38, k2tog, k38.
Row 7 (blue): k25, ssk, k11, ssk, k11, ssk, k24.
Row 9: k24, k2tog, k10, k2tog, k10, k2tog, k24.
Row 11: k24, ssk, k9, ssk, k9, ssk, k23.
Row 13 (green): k13, k2tog, (k8, k2tog) x4, k13.
Row 15: k13, ssk, (k7, ssk) x4, k12.
Row 17: k12, k2tog, (k6, k2tog) x4, k12.
(Might be time to think about getting the head stuffed.)
Row 19 (purple): k5, ssk, (k5, ssk) x6, k4.
Row 21: k4, k2tog, (k4, k2tog) x6, k4.
Row 23: k4, ssk, (k3, ssk) x6, k2.
Row 25 (cyan): k2tog (includes last stitch from previous round), (k2, k2tog) x8, k2.
Row 27: ssk, (k1, ssk) x8, k1.
Row 29: k2tog x8.
Finish by drawing the yarn through the loops once each direction and pulling tight. Knot and finish.

The yarn and needles don't matter. The above octopus uses about half a skein worth (total) of Caron Simply Soft in persimmon and sage on a set of #3 dpn, which are much smaller than recommended for this yarn. The legs each have a different design of these two colors. Once solid of each, and one each split in half alternating in opposite ways. One is a swirl (alternating every row), one alternates every 4 rows, one alternates every 16 rows. The last starts with 3 rows sage, then 4 rows persimmon, then 5 sage and so on increasing in number each time.

little purse -- gunslinger style

I don't like to be pocketless and I don't like the idea of carrying a purse, necessitating putting the stuff that should be in pockets down somewhere and possibly leaving it all wherever it was put. I need something at least large enough for a pair of keys.


This is my solution. A sort of pocket that can be worn just as a holster would be.

Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream. About 1 skein of earth ombre (naturals) colorway or pick your own color(s).
Needles: #6 (4mm) 29" circular needle.
#3 (3.25mm) double pointed needles.
Tapestry needle.

Gauge: 20 stitches per 4", but not particularly important.

Mine came out to 4" wide and 4.75" tall with 34" belt section, plus ties, and is in desperate need for a bit of blocking.

Cast on 22 stitches on the larger needles. Knit 5 rows, ~0.75". Cast off 4 stitches in the middle on the next row, then chain 4 stitches on at the middle for the next row for a button hole. Continue knitting back and forth until the work is 2.5" long for the flap. Chain on 24 stitches after going your preferred direction and join in the round to start the main body of the bag. Continue knitting in the round for 4.75". During the last row finishing along the front, slip the first of the front stitches over the last back stitch. Slip the last front stitch over the first back stitch at the very end. Cut the yarn leaving enough to graft the bottom together. I liked the purl side better and turned it to have that on the outside.

Decide on a left or right side pocket then pick up 3 stitches on the inside of the bag on that side such that one stitch is in the first line of stitches that becomes the flap and two are not. Knit these as an I-cord on the smaller needles for 4.5". Cut the yarn but don't bind off.

Cast on 3 stitches and knit another piece of I-cord for 11.5". If a left bag, continue knitting across the three stitches of the end of the first I-cord. If a right bag, knit back picking up the end of the first I-cord. Continue knitting back and forth over the 6 stitches for 2.75" then put the left three stitches on a holder and continue in I-cord to make a tie, ~8". Bind off the end by passing the yarn through each stitch back to front, then front to back. Pick up the other 3 stitches again for a second I-cord of the same length with the same bind off.

Pick up 3 stitches on the other side and knit them in I-cord for 4.5" again. Undo the cast on end of the second I-cord to reveal 3 live stitches and connect them to the first as per the instructions for the other side. Knit back and forth on the 6 stitches for 20" then add two I-cord ties as on the other side.

Start a crochet chain just inside the corner of the pocket and chain it for 2". Cut the yarn leaving a long tail. Do the same to the other side. Pull the yarn ends into the top I-cord with a needle such that they go in with a width between that is smaller than the pocket width and come out at the same hole between stitches. Tie the ends together tightly, then pass the ends back into the I-cord.

Finally, add a button to the center at the level of the button hole. Mine is a yarn button. It is tied using the flat button knot found here, tied from a crochet chain. The end that sticks out the front was tucked under and in and then the two ends knotted together. The crochet is only long enough that the button is made up of the chain but this knot of the ends is only the yarn. The ends were then passed through the knitting and tied again. Many other yarn buttons exist, or any handy button may be used.

Variation: If to be used with pants, the gunslinger style can be completed by adding some long crocheted ties to each corner of the bottom that can be tied around the leg for further stabilization.

knit purse: fail

The plan for a bag relies on the rectangle in a round knit piece. It was simply to use the rectangles to make a bag about 20 stitches high, 30 wide, and 9 deep. The brown sides are started from the middle so that they'll come to 9x20 stitches. The variegated Starts purling down one of those brown edges, along the bottom, then up the other side. Stitches are chained on for the flap to go over the top and down about 14 stitches, then the other brown piece was purled on three sides, and finally stitches for the front were chained on. Once the border of that larger rectangle was established, the middle was filled in until finally the stitches were grafted together (like sock toes). The safety pins are holding the live stitches where a handle can be attached.



Knitted on #6 needles with sugar'n cream. It was chosen to be 9 stitches deep so that 3 I-cords could be knitted from them and braided together for the handle, with a piece of flat knitting over the shoulder for comfort, perhaps. This makes it deeper (2" at the bottom, 2.5" at the middle) than really desired. It came out 3.5" high and 6" wide at the edge but 8.5" wide at the bottom. This is a fair bit wider than was hoped for.

The handle was probably going to make it pull open at the sides annoyingly anyway. It'll be pulled apart to make another one with a different and hopefully better design.


Maybe I'll try a "gunslinger" style, like the scribble to the left. Perfect for cell phones, of course. It'll be a greater challenge to get it so it doesn't pull open at the sides a bit.

cases

Double pointed needles are usually 7 inches and pencil cases are usually 7.5 inches. The perfect fit. Too bad all of mine are currently filled with brush pens except I rather like the brush pens too. Although, what I really need is something to keep the circulars in.

a rose in any other color

I was looking about at how people put together leaves and finally got to looking at flowers too. There don't seem to be as many flowers around as one might think. I put together one based on the two common techniques for making ruffles. One being to start with a lot more stitches than you might ever want to use and decrease madly, the other being to increase madly and cast off when it starts to seem too much.

I figured the petals should be lighter and the leaves heavier so the leaves get the decreases and the petals get the increases. Needles and yarn aren't terribly important, just something that makes sense together. Smaller yarn/needles makes smaller flowers. The flower above is in "asparagus" Red Heart Eco-Ways and "soft sunshine" Naturally Caron.com on a #9 (5.5 mm) circular needle and came out almost 5 inches wide.

Starting with a nice green for the leaves, cast on 165 stitches and connect into a round taking care not to twist.
Row 1 and all odd rows: knit (K).
Row 2: knit 3 together (K3tog) to the end. I insisted that the middle stitch should land on top so k1, held the next stitch away to pass the 3rd stitch over, then passed the 2nd stitch over. The easiest way, if you don't care which stitch is on top, is to slip two stitches, knit one, then pass those slipped stitches over the new stitch.
Row 4: K4, K3tog, (K8, K3tog)x4, K4.
Row 6: K3, K3tog, (K6, K3tog)x4, K3.
Row 8: K2, K3tog, (K4, K3tog)x4, K2.
Row 10: K1, K3tog, (K2, K3tog)x4, K1.
Row 12: (K3tog)x5.
Row 13: K5. Enthusiastic color changers may wish to do this row in yellow.

This leaves 5 green stitches in the middle. Change to a petal color to do the first, largest, layer of 20 petals. Knitting so that the wrong side faces the leaves (by actually purling or by switching directions), add the petals:
Row 1: K5.
Row 2, 4, 6, 8: Yarn over (YO), K1 to the end.
Row 3 and all odd rows: K to end. This will give 80 stitches when row 9 is finished.
Row 10: YO, K3, YO, K1 to end.
Row 12: YO, K5, YO, K1 to end.
Row 14: YO, K7, YO, K1 to end.
Row 15: K and cast off. I used a slightly softer cast off than the usual. To do this: cut the string about 3 times longer than the length to be cast off. In this case, this can be somewhat over 6 feet of yarn to work with. Thread a yarn needle and pull the yarn through two stitches back to front, the back through the first stitch, front to back. Pull off this first stitch and put it on the other needle as the last stitch. Continue by going forward through 2, back through 1 and dropping the 1.

For the next 10 petals, thread the yarn on a needle through the same route as the first row of the large petal. Since this is going last to first, proceed in a circle in the opposite direction as your knitting. Put the knitting needle through the 5 loops, this is row 1.
Row 2, 4, 6: YO, K1 to the end.
Row 3 and all odd rows: K to end. This will give 40 stitches when row 7 is finished.
Row 8: YO, K3, YO, K1 to end.
Row 10: YO, K5, YO, K1 to end.
Row 12: YO, K7, YO, K1 to end.
Row 13: K and cast off.

Draw the yarn through the center for 5 more loops and put them on the needles for the last 5 petals. This is row 1.
Row 2, 4: YO, K1 the end.
Row 3 and all odd rows: K to end. This will give 20 stitches when row 5 is finished.
Row 6: YO, K3, YO, K1 to end.
Row 8: YO, K5, YO, K1 to end.
Row 10: YO, K7, YO, K1 to end.
Row 11: K and cast off.

For a central button decoration, draw the yarn through the center for 5 more loops and put them on the needles. This is row 1.
Row 2: YO, K1 to the end.
Row 3,4: K.
Row 5: knit 2 together to the end.
Pass the yarn through each stitch and pull somewhat tight, then pass it through each in the other direction. This leaves the purl side showing. Weave in all the ends and finish.

Of course, the pieces of the pattern can be mixed and altered. This flower is in "dill", "ivory", and "peacock" Red Heart Eco-Ways Bamboo Wool (nice stuff) and a little of the soft sunshine above on #6 (4 mm) needles and comes to 3.5 inches. The leaves start with 135 stitches which are then reduced as in the first row and skipping rows 4,5. The first two petal segments are 2 rows shorter. The center was bound off when it hit 20 stitches instead of making the petals and the center was left with the bit of green showing.

rectangle piece

Squares are alright, but rectangles are more useful pieces for putting together into a whole something. This is a plan for a rectangle in the round on a circular needle.

Use a figure eight cast-on on the cable of the circular needle for enough stitches for the desired length minus the width plus two. Knit the first stitch (2 stitches), increase (yarn over) and continue knitting until the last second (third) to last, increase (yarn over) and knit the last. Increase (yarn over), and repeat for the other side of the figure eight. Knit the next row. Continue knitting with two increases around the corner stitch(es) every other row like in the square.

A towel or place mat would be made by just binding off, or the stitches could be left live to be caught up for some other part of whatever it will become. As stated, there could be something funny going on at one corner. Following the parenthesis instructions might fix it but leaves rounder corners as seen in the square.

In reverse, enough stitches could be cast on for the perimeter of the project and reductions taken as needed at the corners, two every other row. When the center is reached, graft it like the toe of a sock. Grafting leaves the yarn at the middle following the same path as the figure eight cast on.

It would be highly recommended to mark the corners either way. It is easy to misplace a stitch one way or the other while working.

Four Cornered Round Hat: Graduation edition

Graduation is next week, at least in my neck of the woods!

If one starts with the idea of the Four Cornered Round Hat of the previous post, it wouldn't be too hard to knit up a mortarboard style hat for graduation. Well, if you're in a school with this particular traditional, anyway. The hard part would be finding the yarn in the right color. Somehow I've not seen the Sugar'n Cream in black although it is available.

Here is a plan for such a hat which will utilize the reverse direction plan:

This would probably take 3-4 skeins of yarn rather than just 2.

Cast on 100 stitches for a 22" head. Join taking care not to twist the cast-on. Knit a few rows straight for 1-1.5" then start decreasing to fit the crown. Place markers every 25 stitches and decrease at the markers every other row until only 14 are left on each side.

It is likely one will need to add a few short rows to the corners to help the circle to square transition. Try: K2, switch direction, S1, K3, switch direction, S1, K to the next marker for each corner. Rather hard to say. Increase on the next row and continue increasing following the instructions for the hat top.

The mortarboard portion needs to go out to about 12". For the gauge, this is when each side reaches 61 stitches but measure to be sure. Purl a row then knit 3 rows and purl another.

The top will eventually need something to hold it stiff. Now is the easiest time to put it in, but that might not fit on the needles still. A bit of coat hanger or some cardboard would be the obvious cheap stiffeners. A lot of starch at the end might do it too. Decrease as instructed for the bottom of the hat but continue until there are 3 stitches on each side. Decrease once more on each side. If needed to fill the middle, knit one more row. Pull the yarn through the live loops at the end.

Four Cornered Round Hat: reverse direction

As I said in the previous post, I realized I knitted the hat in the reverse of the easiest direction. Well, I suspect I did. Here is the plan to reverse the pattern:

Start off by casting on 100 stitches (change in multiples of 8 if needed) of CA. Join the round and knit rows until there is enough solid for the edge. Knit 1/2 row more and start the swirl pattern by starting CC. Continue in the swirl until there are enough straight stitches. Place markers every 25 stitches to mark the sides. When ready, start increasing as instructed for the top of the hat until there are 45 stitches to a side. Purl a row, then knit a few rows and purl another row. Knit the top decreasing as instructed for the bottom. When there are 12 stitches, only decrease once per side. Knit another row if needed to fill in the center and pull the yarn through the live stitches to finish. Weave in the ends.

Knitting into the bottom YO without a twist might not look too bad.

Four Cornered Round Hat

This silly beret style hat is inspired by the knitting technique used for the dizzy dishcloth to knit a square in the round. The colors spiral outward from the center, but this time the yarn overs are knit twisted so there are no holes and it is done in stockinette instead of garter. Twisting the stitch does tighten up the increase rows, so one less row in the middle is needed. The square created this way was not quite as flat, but still fairly flat. When I was searching for a bind off technique I liked, it occurred to me that it would have been easier to knit from the brim instead of the top.

Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream. About 1 skein each of sage green (solids) and landscape (stripes) colorways or pick your own colors.
Needles: #6 (4mm) 29" circular needle.
Also needs a tapestry needle at the very end.

Gauge: 20 stitches per 4", but not particularly important.

Abbreviations: K = knit, P = purl, YO = yarn over, K2tg = knit 2 together, SSK = slip 2 (as if to purl), pass them back and knit them together. CA = solid color, CC = contrasting (stripes) color, PM = place marker. The YO are always knitted with a twist: Krt = knit with a right twist, Klt = knit with a left twist.

Pattern:
This is done generally as a magic loop on the circular needle. Cast on 4 stitches of CA then 4 more of CC. This cast on will be unraveled at the end. With CC on the cable, K2 of CC into CA, PM, K2, PM. Move the CC cast on to the needle and the stitches just done to the cable, K2 of CA into CC taking care not to leave a twist. PM, K2. The markers now mark the corners of the hat and a "side" is the space between markers.


Row 2: With CA, K1, YO, K1. Slip the markers as you come to them. K1, YO, K1. With CC, K1, YO, K1, K1, YO, K1.

Row 3: With CC, K1, Krt, K1, K1, Krt, K1 . With CA, K1, Krt, K1, K1, Krt, K1. The twist direction is not actually important on this row. For the right twist, you just knit into the back of the YO.

Row 4 and all even rows on the top of the hat: With CA, K1, YO, K until 1 stitch is left before the marker, YO, K1. Repeat for a second side. With CC, repeat for the last 2 sides.

Row 5 and all odd rows on the top of the hat: With CC, K1, Krt, K until 2 stitches are left before the marker, Klt, K1. Repeat for a second side. With CA, repeat for the last 2 sides.

Continue until finishing the odd row with 45 stitches. This finishes the top of the hat which should be about 9"x9".

Side row 1: P 2 sides with CA. P 2 sides with CC. Continue to carry the markers along.

Row 2-7: K 2 sides with the color on hand. Switch colors at the halfway point and K 2 more sides.

Row 8: P 2 sides with CC. P 2 sides with CA. This finishes the side.

Bottom row 1 and all odd rows while decreasing: With CA K1, K2tog, K until 2 stitches are left before the marker, SSK, K1. Repeat for a 2nd side. Repeat with CC for 2 more sides.

Row 2 and all even rows: With CC, K 2 sides. With CA K the 2 remaining sides.

Decrease until there are 25 stitches remaining on each side to fit a head about 22". K an additional 8 rows continuing to change colors at the middle point. Cut CC and K 8 more rows in CA.

Use a stretchy bind off. The second one on this page fits the character of the hat well but needs to be modified for the round. K1, then pass it back to the left needle. K1 into the same stitch. Now *K1, pass 2 stitches back, K2tog*. Repeat between the asterics until all the stitches are used. Cut the yarn and pull the last stitch through. Thread it around the 2nd stitch knitted in the bind off and back through where it had been. This makes the bind off a continuous loop.

At the top, undo the cast on and one row to leave 4 live loops of each color. Thread the ends through these loops and pull it somewhat tight. Weave in all the ends.


Tip: Eventually the work is large enough to knit in the round normally, but do not stop the magic loop working before its time. If the work is stretched on the needle when knitting in the round, it's not really big enough for that yet.

dizzy dishcloth

There's probably far too many of them and yet you still have to start with a washcloth sometime. Oh, what a boring start.

I have all sorts of terrycloth washcloths I got from the dollar store for doing dishes. They hold soap great and wipe up the spills wonderfully, but they do not scrub well at all. I came upon a site claiming that a bit of seed stitch in a thick cotton yarn is the best scrubber for dish washing. I have a couple based on that, but I personally feel that garter works better. This cloth is not only in garter, but the way I use it, the stitches always seem to be in the correct direction for scrubbing the dishes.

(Another dizzy dishcloth in violet and white.)

Inspired by: Reverse Miter Dishcloth

Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream. About 1/3 skein each of bright blue and sunshine colorways or pick your own colors.
Needles: I've done it on #3 (3.25mm) double pointed needles or a #6 (4mm) 29" circular needle with much the same effect.
Also needs a tapestry needle at the very end.

Gauge: 20 stitches per 4", but not particularly important. In garter stitch, 2 rows take up just about the same length as 1 stitch.

Abbreviations: K = knit, P = purl, YO = yarn over, KC = knit color, PC = purl color.

Pattern:
Provisional cast on 4 stitches of each color. One way to do this is a figure 8 cast on, which should be done tightly on a thin piece of waste yarn since the stitches will only be knit into once. Another way would be a cable cast on. This requires knitting an extra row and some fixing of the first loop after pulling it out to get the live stitches.

Choose one color to knit (KC) and the other to purl (or knit backwards as I do, PC). Distribute the cast on over 4 dpn with 2 stitches each. If using a circular needle instead, the corners where the dpn would have met will eventually need ring markers that loop around the needle and are slipped when come to. It is easiest to avoid tension problems if the ends never catch up to each other, but this can't be done on a circular.

Row 1: Knit KC into the cast on of PC. Join it into a round by purling PC into the cast on of KC, taking care not to twist.

Row2: With KC, K1, YO, K1 on each of two sides. With PC, P1, YO, P1 on the remaining two sides.

Row 3 and all odd rows: With KC, knit each of two sides. With PC, purl each of the remaining two sides.

Row 4 and all even rows: With KC, K1, YO, knit until there is one stitch left on the side, YO, K1 over two sides. With PC, P1, YO, purl until there is one stitch left on the side, YO, P1 for the remaining two sides.

The colors change with each row at the halfway point leading to a swirl pattern and no apparent jog points. Continue knitting until the square is large enough, casting off on an odd row. For an 8" cloth, this should be when the work is 41 stitches on each side. On the last cast off stitch, cut the yarn leaving a few inches, pull the end out of the loop, around the first loop with a tapestry needle and back through the previous loops as it had been before pulling out. Weave in the ends.

At the center of the cloth, run the end of the yarn through the 8 loops a few times and weave in the ends.

Knitting an 8" square of garter stitch on 7" dpn: This can be done even though the garter tends to push out to its entire width. The stitches just need held scrunched up since they won't stay that way by themselves. I managed this with a piece of wire wrapped around each needle I was not using and was able to control the yarn on the needle I was knitting on enough to need no extra help. End caps for the needles could be used if this is not the case.

The plan...

This is a place to put down my knitting ideas. I seem to be incapable of following a pattern very well, so I will undoubtedly write them quite badly too. Also I haven't been knitting for anywhere near long enough to have an appropriate repertoire of techniques, and I'm self taught off the net so those I do have I know wrong.

When I decide I want to do a project, I usually look through all sorts of patterns thinking "not quite right..." and after taking in all of those, do my own thing. Sometimes I feel inspired to do something entirely without looking and that's when things get crazy. This is where I shall put it all down. It's not that they're any good, just that they're mine.