glovtens

Another "spork" for the world of hand warming clothing items. Gloves provide articulation of the fingers to allow us to actually do stuff whole the hands are kept toasty, but mittens are generally warmer when all other things are equal. Capturing a little more articulation than the previous pair, this pair isolates the upper half of two fingers for the operation of cameras or whatever is needed while leaving the rest of the fingers to have friendly finger warmth.

I took quite a lot of measurements to get the size to fit my hand. I am sure there are some general rules that would allow one to do this with a couple, but I don't know them.

A start of the measurements and the basic idea.

Executed exactly as planned.

I will again attempt to communicate how to make these in any size with any gauge, but will also write down exactly what I did in bold for my hand and gauge. I used Patons Classic Wool, a worsted weight yarn that is 100% wool. I knitted on US #6 (4mm) needles. In stockinette, my gauge is 22 stitches and 29 rows for 4 inches square. The completed project fits a hand 8" around and 7" long. It used 2/3 of the skein for two glovtens.

Measure length around hand. (For me, 8 inches.) Use the gauge to calculate how many stitches for this length and cast on the nearest amount divisible by 4. (8"/4"*stitches = 44 stitches. This is divisible by 4 already.) Cast on this number of stitches and continue on k2, p2 ribbing for 2", then knit a row.
Cast on 44 stitches;(k2, p2)x11 for 15 rows;
k44;

Measure from the base of the hand where the thumb splits (a in the illustration above) and calculate a number of rows from this. (2.25"/4"*rows = 16.3 rows, I used 17.)
Measure around thumb and calculate the nearest even number of stitches. (2.5" becomes 14 stitches.)
Knit the number of rows calculated while evenly adding the 4 less than stitches calculated (10 stitches) in pairs next to the original 2nd and 2nd to last stitch. Make the stitch by pulling up the yarn below between the stitches and knitting it twisted.
k1, m1, k42, m1, k1;
k46 for 2 rows;
k2, m1, k42, m1, k2;
k48 for 3 rows;
k3, m1, k42, m1, k3;
k50 for 2 rows;
k4, m1, k42, m1, k4;
k52 for 3 rows;
k5, m1, k42, m1, k5;
k54 for 2 rows;

To start the thumb, knit across 1 less than the number of pairs added and make a stitch, then put all but an equal number of stitches on a holder and make a stitch on the opposite side, then knit to the end.
k6, m1, put 42 stitches on a holder, m1, k6;

Measure the shortest thumb length and knit one row less than this length. (2" is 15 rows.) Close the thumb using repeats of *k2tog, k1* or *k1, k2tog*, whichever is required to not end with a k2tog on a single stitch. Pull the yarn through the final stitches a couple times and weave in.
k14 for 14 rows;
(k2tog, k1)x5, k2tog;
pull yarn through remaining stitches;

Measure from the base of hand to first joint on first finger (b) and subtract the length already done (a) to find a number of rows. (4.875”-2.25” = 2.625” left. 19 rows.) Knit into the same loop as the first made stitch and around the held stitches, then into the same loop as the second made stitch. Continue around for the rest of the calculated rows.
k the same loop as the 1st made stitch, k42, k the same loop as the 2nd made stitch;
k44 for 18 rows;

Measure around finger and calculate the number of stitches. This should not be less than the cast on stitches plus 12 all divided by 4. (2.5” is 14 stitches. (44+12)/4=14 also.) Knit one less than half these stitches, make one, place the rest to an equal number of stitches on a holder, make another across from the first and knit to the end to split off the first finger.
k6, m1, put 32 on a holder, m1, k6;

Measure from the joint to the end and calculate the number of rows. (1.875” is 14 rows.) Knit one less than this number of rows and then finish the same way as the thumb.
k14 for 13 rows;
(k2tog, k1)x5, k2tog;
draw yarn through remaining stitches a couple rounds and weave in the end;

Measure to the first joint of the second finger (c) and subtract what has already been done (b) to calculate a number of rows. (5.2”-4.875” is 2.35 rows. 2 or 3, go with 2) Knit on similar to before including the made stitches and knit these rows.
k into the same loop as the 1st made stitch, k32, and k into the same loop as the 2nd made stitch;
k34;

Measure around the second finger for a number of stitches. This should not be less than for the previous finger. (2.5” is 14 stitches. Same as previous.) Knit 1 less than half these, make one, put the rest on a holder leaving an equal number of stitches on the far side, make another across from the first, and knit to the end.
k6, m1, place 22 on a holder, m1, k6;

Measure length from the joint to the end for a number of rows. (2” is 14.5 rows. Use 15.) Knit 1 less than these rows and finish like on the thumb.

k14 for 14 rows;(k2tog, k1)x5, k2tog;
pull yarn through remaining stitches and weave in;

Measure 3rd finger from base of the hand and subtract what has already been done for a number of rows. (6.5”-5.2” is 9.425 rows.)
Measure pinky from base of the hand and subtract what has already been done for a number of rows. (5.5”-5.2” is 2.175 rows.) K into the made stitches and the remaining stitches as before. Finish the number or rows to cover the 4th finger. Start decreasing near the center or each round to finish decreasing when long enough for the 3rd finger. (Begin decreases after 2 rows, finish in 9.)

k into the same loop as the 1st made stitch, k22, then into the same loop as the 2nd made stitch;
k24;
k9, k2tog, k2, ssk, k9;
k22;
k8, k2tog, k2, ssk, k8; (20 stitches)
k7, k2tog, k2, ssk, k7; (18 stitches)
k6, k2tog, k2, ssk, k6; (16 stitches)
k5, k2tog, k2, ssk, k5; (14 stitches)
k4, k2tog, k2, ssk, k4; (12 stitches)
(k2tog, k1)x4;
draw the yarn through the last stitches;

Once the first is complete, repeat for the second. While hands tend to have differences between left and right, you will probably want to complete these in the same way for the second one to be symmetrical, so it is good practice to write down your steps if you are not following the same exact steps I used.

Variations:

Well, one variation. Fingerless: Stop 4 rows short of the end on the thumb and/or fingers, then bind off in purl. Wrap the last stitch around the first to complete the in-the-round bind off.

near mits: somewhat fingerless mittens

These come from wondering what will really keep my hands warm while also allowing operation of a mildly fancy camera while hiking. For warmest hands, one wants thick mittens. For doing things without taking off the cold protection, one wants thin gloves. These are incompatible. Most times, only the thumb and a finger are really needed. So here come the near mits.

I'm doing this pattern in two ways: conceptual and concrete. The conceptual should be sufficient to fit them to any hand using any yarn or needle, but requires a bit extra to follow. The concrete is what exactly I did to make this work for my hands on the needles I chose with the yarn I chose. Since hands, needles, yarn, and tightness of technique all vary quite a bit, this is unlikely to work for too many variations. But I do have some rather average hands.

Conceptual pattern:

Wrist: First, you will need to have some idea of your gauge. Then decide how far up the arm they should go and measure the circumference there and of the hand at the palm (no thumb). Cast on enough stitches for the arm measurement and join in the round. Knit many rows, decreasing evenly to the correct number of stitches for the hand measurement over the desired length. Usually this knitting will start with some ribbing of some sort.

 Hand start: Measure around the thumb to determine how many stitches will be needed to go around it (a) and measure from the base of the hand to where the thumb slits off to determine how many rows are needed (b). Add a-4 stitches in pairs near the first and last stitch evenly over b rows.

Thumb: Knit (a/2)-1 stitches, make one next to the last stitch. Across from this, make another stitch and knit the (a/2)-1 stitches back to the start. Place the rest of the stitches on a holder. This is the thumb. Continue knitting around, the last few rows in a k1, p1 pattern, until almost as long as the thumb, then cast off loosely (or use a stretchy bind off) in pattern. Wrap the last stitch around the first stitch to make a complete circle of bind-off. (For sufficiently small gauge, more stitches may be required for the crossing in which case they can be chained on. Like these two made stitches, the new loops will be knitted in again when starting the rest of the hand and a similar procedure will be needed when slitting off the finger and starting the closed off fingers.)

Finger: Knit into the same loop as the first made stitch, then around the held stitches and into the same loop as the last made stitch. Knit rows until long enough to cover the first joint. Measure around the finger to determine how many stitches are needed to go around it (c). Knit (c/2)-1 stitches, make one, go to the other side, make another and knit (c/2)-1 stitches back to the start. Place the rest of the stitches on a holder. Knit around, the last few rows in k1, p1 pattern, until almost as long as the finger and bind off like the thumb.

Capped fingers: Knit into the same loop as the first made stitch for the finger, then around the held stitches and into the same loop as the last made stitch. Knit around, decreasing when appropriate, to leave just enough space for the other fingers. Graft the end (kitchener) to finish. Weave in the ends.

Concrete pattern:

Choose either a long wrist or a short wrist, then continue on to the hand portion.

This was done with Stitch Nation Full o' Sheep on #8 (5 mm) cable needle generating an approximate gauge of 9 stitches and 12 rows per 2". Uses one ball. Fits hand approximately 8" around and 7" long from wrist to longest finger tip.

k = knit
p = purl
m = make: pull up the yarn between the last worked stitch and the next stitch and knit into this with a twist.
k2tog = knit two together
ssk = slip a stitch, slip another, then knit them together.

Long wrist:

Cast on 40. Place marker and join in round.
k1, p1 for 4 rows;
k 4 rows;
k 3, k2tog, k to end;
k 7 rows;
k 22, k2tog, k to end;
k 7 rows;
k 14, k2tog, k to end;
k 7 rows;
k 32, k2tog, k 3;
k 1 row;
k2, p2 for 8 rows;
k 1 row;

Short wrist: 

Cast on 36. Place marker and join in the round.

k2, p2; for 14 rows;
k 1 row;

hand:

k1, m1, k 34, m1, k1;
k 2 row;
k2, m1, k 34, m1, k2;
k 2 rows;
k3, m1, k 34, m1, k3;
k 2 rows;
k4, m1, k 34, m1, k4;
k 2 rows;
k5, m1, k 34, m1, k5;
k 1 row;
k6, m1, place 34 on a holder, m1, k6;
k 6 rows;
k1, p1 for 4 rows;
Cast off loosely to finish thumb. Loop the last stitch around the first cast off stitch to finish in the round. (This will require a needle.)

k into the same loop as the first made stitch, k the held stitches, k into the same loop as the last made stitch;
k 18 rows;
k6, m1, hold 24, m1, k6;
k 1 row;
k1, p1 for 4 rows;
cast off loosely.

k into the same loop as the first made stitch, k the held stitches, k the same loop as the last made stitch;
k 1 row;
k10, k2tog, k2, ssk, k10;
k 1 row;
k9, k2tog, k2, ssk, k9;
k8, k2tog, k2, ssk, k8;
k7, k2tog, k2, ssk, k7;
(k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1) x2;
Graft the end. (Kitchener stitch.)

To close the bits:

Since one may not want open fingers on both hands, it is useful to be able to make a full thumb and/or full fingers.

For the thumb:

Stop before the rows of k1, p1 and:
k 6 rows (12 total);
(k2tog, k1)x4, k2tog;
draw cord through the stitches;

For the fingers without splitting one off:

After knitting 18 rows
k 1 row;
k15, k2tog, k2, ssk, k15;
k 1 row;
k14, k2tog, k2, ssk, k14;
k13, k2tog, k2, ssk, k13;
(k1, ssk, k9, k2tog, k1)x2;
(k1, ssk, k7, k2tog, k1)x2;
Graft the end. (Kitchener stitch.)

Jellyfish don't belong on your head: a hat

This is a top down pattern that turns quite a few yards of yarn into a very silly hat.  All kinds of patterning could be tried on it.  I kept thinking about trying some intarsia in the round, but managed to do most of that thinking after it was started as just the basic grey.

The hat is constructed of  Lion Brand Fisherman Wool in oatmeal, natural, and maple tweed knitted on a #7 (4.5 mm) needle.  Magic loop knitting with a cable needle allows using a single needle.  On this needle, it is about 20 stitches 28 rows for 4", but the gauge isn't very critical.  A tapestry needle is needed to finish things off.

For the mantle, take the oatmeal, a rather grey color, or something quite bright:
Cast one 5 stitches.
1) kfb (knit in front and back) around: 10 stitches
2) kfb around: 20 stitches
3 and each row not mentioned) k
4) kfb, k1 to the end (10 repeats)
6) kfb, k2
8) kfb, k3
10) kfb, k4
12) kfb, k5
14) kfb, k6
16) kfb, k7
18) kfb, k8
20) kfb, k9
23) kfb, k1026) kfb, k11
30) kfb, k1234) kfb, k13
knit 12 rows
47) kfb, k14
knit 3 rows
51) kfb, k7 to end (20 repeats)
53) kfb, k8
54) yo, k1
Cast off knitting the yarn overs through the back loop.

Hat interior:
Pick up 100 stitches along the inside with a matching color.  A crochet hook can be helpful for this.

k 6 rows, then change colors (I went to the maple tweed) and knit about 3 inches.
Do some p2, k2 ribbing for another 1.5 inches or so and cast off:
k2, slip the stitches back and k2tog, then k1, slip, k2tog around.  Loop the last loop around the first to complete the circle and weave in.

Tentacles/oral arms:
These are worked while flipping the fabric rather than working back and forth.
Make 10 to 20 to distribute around the hat, I used the natural for these:

Tentacle 1: Cast on 36.
1) k6, kbl30 (knit through the back loop)
2) (k1, yo)x6, k2, (yo, k1)x23, k5
3) k52, w&t (wrap and turn: yarn forward, slip the next stitch, yarn back and slip it again, then flip the fabric)
4) (k1, yo)x46, k6
cast off

Tentacle 2: Cast on 36.
1) k6, kbl30
2) (k1, yo)x6, k2, (yo, k1)x23, k5
3) k52, w&t
4) (k1, yo)x12, k2, (yo, k1)x33, k5
5) k72, w&t
6) (k1, yo)x66, k6
cast off

Tentacle 3: Cast on 28.
1)  k6, kbl22
2) (k1, yo)x6, k2, (yo, k1)x15, k5
3) k36, w&t
4) (k1, yo)x12, k2, (yo, k1)x17, k5
5) k40, w&t
6) (k1, yo)x34, k6
cast off

Attach these around the hat at the color change using the tail from the cast on.

Weave in the ends and the hat is ready.

minor octopus hat

I knit a fish hat that I gave to a friend, but she soon lost it to her husband who insists that it is his.  I decided to knit something for her that he can be jealous of because he's only got a fish to go on his head.  I decided to get an octopus for her.  Figuring it was a simple thing, I looked at the patterns and found nothing very good there, so I just started off on my own.  I plan to put some sort of mantle on it, too, but the result pre-mantle seems suitable for your more conservative octopus hat wearer.

 

I used some Lion Brand Fisherman's Wool (oak tweed) on #7 (4.5 mm) cable needle.  The gauge is about 5 stitches and 7 rows per inch each way.

k = knit; p = purl; k2tog = knit two together; ssk = slip two stitches singly and knit them together (slip, slip, knit)

Cast on 88 stitches and join in the round.  Knit 3 rows.  Do k2, p2 ribbing for about an inch, then knit for another 3 inches.  At this point it may be desirable to change color.  Put the last 77 stitches on a stitch holder (such as a smaller cable needle) to start on the octopus legs, starting on the 11 stitches left.

Legs:
1) k 11 stitches, knit on 7 more and join in the round.
2) k
3) k
4) k2, p2, k3, p2, k9
5) same as 4
6) k
7) repeat 3-6 11 times (giving 12 sets of purl bumps)
8) k5, k2tog, k4, ssk, k3, k2tog
9) k2, p2, k2, p2, k7
10) same as 9
11) k
12) k
13) repeat 9-11
14) k2, ssk, k2, k2tog, k3, ssk, k2
15) k3, p2, k7
16) same as 15
17) k
18) k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1
19) k2, p2, k5
20) same as 19
21) k
22) k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1
23) k
24) ssk, k2tog, k2tog
25) draw the yarn through the last 3 loops and weave in the end.

Continue making legs until all the loops are used.  Pick up the 7 knitted on stitches on each leg giving 56 stitches.
1) slip the first stitch to next to the last stitch, k5, pick up the yarn between the legs from the last round of knitting all the way around, give it a twist and put it on the left needle, then knit it together with the next two stitches.  Continue until the row is finished.  (k5, make the stitch, k3tog)
2) k
3) k4, ssk around
4) k
5) slip the first to the last, k3, k2tog
6) k
7) k2, ssk
8) k
9) slip the first stitch, k1, k2tog
10) ssk
Draw the yarn through the last 8 stitches and weave in all the ends.

partial octal -- 3/4 shawl with shaping

This is a shawl with a little bit of shaping for the shoulders that makes a 3/4 circle.  I made a start at it, but am realizing that I cannot finish it with the meager amount of bulky yarn I have.  I draped what I did knit of it over my shoulders, and was surprised how nice it sits there, so decided to post the pattern.  One day I'll have the 6-8 balls this will take, but currently I'm thinking of what to do with what I have instead.

Using Wool-Ease Thick & Quick or some other super bulky yarn on #13 (9 mm) cable needle giving a gauge of 9 stitches and 12 rows to 4" (10 mm).  Requires doing short rows.  Wraps should be picked up, but I will not be noting where they are.  I changed color at row 20, but that could happen before or after or not at all as desired.  I knit only to row 24.

k = knit; p = purl; w&t = wrap and turn; m1 = make one: do a yo, in the next row knit this stitch twisted, I usually k through the back of the loop, but at the second yo by the arms I twist it the other direction.

1) Cast on 104 stitches and k a row
2) k45, m1, k2, m1, k5, m1, k5, m1, k2, m1, k45
3) k to end
4) k44, m1, k4, m1, k7, m1, k6, m1, k4, m1, k44
5 and all odd to 11) k2, p until 2 are left, k2
6) k43, m1, k6, m1, k8, m1, k8, m1, k6, m1, k43
8) k42, m1, k8, m1, k9, m1, k10, m1, k8, m1, k42
10) k41, m1, k10, m1, k11, m1, k11, m1, k10, m1, k41
12) k40, m1, k12, m1, k13, m1, k12, m1, k12, m1, k40
13) k2, p50, w&t; k10, w&t; p50, w&t; k10, w&t; p50, k2
14) k39, m1, k14, m1, k14, m1, k14, m1, k14, m1, k39
15) k2, p50, w&t; k10, w&t; p55, w&t; k10, w&t; p48, w&t (4 left at the end)
16) k34, m1, k16, m1, k15, m1, k16, m1, k16, m1, k34, w&t
17) p until 8 are left, w&t
18) k29, m1, k18, m1, k17, m1, k17, m1, k18, m1, k29, w&t
19) p until 12 are left, w&t
20) k24, m1, k20, m1, k19, m1, k18, m1, k20, m1, k24, w&t
21) p until 16 are left, w&t
22) k19, m1, k22, m1, k20, m1, k20, m1, k22, m1, k19, w&t
23) p until 20 are left, w&t
24) k14, m1, k24, m1, k21, m1, k22, m1, k24, m1, k14, w&t
25) p until 24 are left, w&t
26) k9, m1, k26, m1, k23, m1, k23, m1, k26, m1, k9, w&t
27) p until 20 are left, w&t
28) k4, m1, k28, m1, k25, m1, k24, m1, k25, m1, k4, w&t
29) p until 2 are left, picking up the wraps, k2
30) k31, m1, k30, m1, k26, m1, k26, m1, k30, m1, k31
31 and all odd) again like 5
32) k30, m1, k32, m1, k27, m1, k28, m1, k32, m1, k30
and continue on in this pattern of 6 knitted sections where the 1st and 6th are always less by 1 stitch, the 2nd and 5th are more by 2 stitches, and the 3rd and 4th increase by 3 shared between the two.  The stitch that grows by 2 alternates every 2nd increase.  End the increases with the row starting k2, m1.  If more length is desired, add a few rows of k and finally end with 4 garter rows and bind off not too tightly.

wide brimmed hat

This hat has a stiff brim supported by wire.  Because of this, it has a very large brim without much yarn used.  Since it is knit, the sunlight is only partly blocked.  It is sized for an extra large head over 24" (but I'll put the modification for a normal 22" head in parenthesis).

This one happens to be knit in Caron Simply Soft in the color limelight on a #8 (5 mm) cable needle.  This gave a gauge of 18 stitches to 4".  It took a bit over 100 yards (less than half the skein).  I also used a second cable with smaller needles in the provisional cast on.  An 16 gauge galvanized wire (about 50") holds up the brim.

k = knit
k2tog = knit two together
yo, s1 = yarn over, slip one
k2tbl = knit two through the back loop

Provisionally cast on 216 (198) stitches.  I used a figure 8 cast on with the cable of the extra cable needle.  Join in a circle being careful not to twist and k 2 rows then knit the next row together with the live loops from the provisional cast on.  This forms the tube in which the wire will sit.
1) k22, k2tog (k20, k2tog) around
2 and each even row) k
3) k21, k2tog (k19, k2tog)
5) k20, k2tog (k18, k2tog)
7) k19, k2tog (k17, k2tog)
9) k18, k2tog (k16, k2tog)
11) k17, k2tog (k15, k2tog)
13) k16, k2tog (k14, k2tog)
15) k15, k2tog (k13, k2tog)
17) k14, k2tog (k12, k2tog)
19) k13, k2tog (k11, k2tog)
21) k12, k2tog (k10, k2tog)
23) k11, k2tog (k9, k2tog)
For the hatband shown, repeat these two rows:
1) yo, s1 around
2) k2tbl around (the yo and slipped stitch together)
Go for about 6 repeats.  Continue knitting until there are 3" or so from the brim (my hat is a little too shallow) then p a row and continue as:
1) k10, k2tog (k8, k2tog)
2 and each even row) k
3) k9, k2tog (go to step 7)
5) k8, k2tog
7) k7, k2tog
9) k6, k2tog
11) k5, k2tog
13) k4, k2tog
15) k3, k2tog
17) k2, k2tog
19) k1, k2tog
21) k2tog
22) pull yarn through the final 8 stitches and weave in the ends.  Thread the wire through the sleeve at the edge and tie the ends to the side of the wire with thread wrapped a few times then tied.

garter brim hat

This is a soft hat with a brim.  Since it is soft, the brim is fairly floppy, but can be pushed out of the eyes and will stay that way.  It can be folded in ways that help it stay up as well.  It is sized for a normal 22" head.

This one happens to be knit in Caron Simply Soft in the color limelight on a #7 (4.5 mm) cable needle.  This gave a gauge of 12 stitches to 2.5".  It took about 200 yards (more than half the skein).

k = knit
p = purl
kfb = knit front and back (an increase)

Cast on 8 stitches and join in the round or start with your favorite 8 stitch circular start.
1) kfb around
2 and even rounds) k
3) kfb, k1 around
5) kfb, k2 around
7) kfb, k3 around
9) kfb, k4 around
11) kfb, k5 around
13) kfb, k6 around
15) kfb, k7 around
17) kfb, k8 around
19) kfb, k9 around
21) kfb, k10 around
23) kfb, k11 around
25) k around for 2 to 2.5 inches
To have the hatband as shown, knit in pattern found here for another 1.5 to 2 inches ending on row 3.  Otherwise knit plain or use another desirable pattern.  There should be 4 to 5 inches between the increases and brim at the end.
For the brim:
1) kfb around
2 and even rounds) p
3 and odd rounds) k
Continue until the brim is wide enough, about 9 sets.  Cast off on a purl row.

Rabbit hat

Why is it that babies get all the fun hats?  Surely adults need to have fun too.  Is it because they worry about what others will think of them if they have wild things?  I couldn't find a rabbit themed hat, so I had to figure it out myself.  Now I've got a hat suitable for people nick-named "Rabbit" and drivers of Volkswagen Golfs, but probably not Playboy bunnies.

 

Yarn: Any ol' worsted thing, I used Loops & Threads Silky Soft in aran.  It was much less than one 6 oz skein.
Needles: #7 (4.5 mm) circular needle (for magic loop) and one extra needle the same size or smaller

Gauge: not critical, approximately what is says on the yarn (18 per 4")
k=knit, k2tog=knit two together, k3tog=knit three together: slip 1 stitch, k2tog, then pass the slipped stitch over, ssk=slip two stitches and knit them together, yo=yarn over

First, knit a couple ears.  The big floppy rabbit ears in a size suitable for an adult hat are already blogged.  Then knit your favorite hat and attach the ears.  I wanted something a little bit fancy and fit with the rabbit theme and wasn't looking for something all that warm, so made a carrot edging and used a simple lace to decorate the main portion of the hat.

Knit 4 carrots for the edging.  The carrot edging is also previously blogged.  The really brave will do them in orange and green.  Connect them into a loop without twisting and pick up 90 stitches in knit along the flat edge and start knitting:
k 4 rows
lace:
1) *yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1*
2) k
3) *k1, yo, k3tog, yo, k2*
4) k
Repeat these rows a total of 4 times
k 8 rows, then decrease with *k8, k2tog*
k 4 rows and decrease with k2, k2tog, *k7, k2tog*, k5
k 2 rows and then k3, k2tog, *k6, k2tog*, k3
k 1 row then *k5, k2tog*
k 1 row then k1, k2tog, *k4, k2tog*, k3
k 1 row then *k3, k2tog*
k 1 row then *k2tog, k2*
k 1 row then *k2tog, k1*
*k2tog* and pull the end of the yarn through the last 9 stitches.

This makes a fairly unpatterned top for the hat.  For locating ears, I put mine toward the back a little bit.  Here's a photo for help in locating the ears and to see how the top comes out:

I picked up the stitches along the carrots so that they hand down from the hat.  They could be picked up so that they sort of fold over the lower section of the hat in which case some of the plain rows after the lace should be moved to before the lace so that the carrots stop before the lace starts.  There's more photos of the hat on my Ravelry project page.

carrot edging

I looked around for an edging that could be a carrot, but couldn't find anything like that.  It took a few tries, but I created something I like.  I'll link them together and pick up stitches from the side to start a hat.  Here is that edge of carrots.  It is a mix of flat and in-the-round.  Since I knit back and forth, the instructions are from the right side.

This just happens to be what I used for my project.  Any other project would expect to use about the same as the rest of the project, be that fingering weight or bulky.

Yarn: Any ol' worsted thing, I used Loops & Threads Silky Soft in aran.
Needles: #7 (4.5 mm) circular needle (for magic loop) and one extra needle the same size or smaller

Gauge: not critical, approximately what is says on the yarn
k=knit, p=purl, yo=yarn over, k1b=k1 through the back of the loop, p2tog=purl 2 together, CO=cast off

Starting at the right on 3 stitches:

1) p1, k1, p1

2) start I-cord by slipping the stitches to the other end of the needle and k3

3) k3, yo

4) k3, k1b

5) k4, yo (this is a good time to switch from I-cord technique to a magic loop technique)

6) k4, k1b

7) k5, yo

8) k5, k1b

9) k6, yo

10) k6, k1b

11) k7, yo

12) k7, k1b

13) k8, yo

14) k8, k1b

15) k9, yo

16) k9, k1b

17) k10

18) Place the last 5 stitches on the extra needle, knit the back stitches together with the front stitches, this reverts it to flat knitting

19) p2tog, k1 and cast off the previous stitch, p2 (3 stitches)

20) p2, k1

21) k1, p2

22) p2, k1, k on 3 stitches

23) CO 2 stitches, place the 3rd back on the right needle and k together with the next stitch, p2 (3 stitches)

24) p2, k1

25) k1, p2

26) p2, k1, k on 5 stitches

27) CO 4 stitches, place the 5th back on the right needle and k with the next, p2

28) p2, k1

29) k1, p2

30) p2, k1, k on 3 stitche

31) CO 2 stitches, place the 3rd back on the right needle and k with the next, p2

Repeat as often as required.

To make a fuller carrot top, k on 4 stitches at the end of rows 24 and 28, then CO 3 and k the 4th with the next stitch for rows 25 and 29.  Even fuller, stop binding off before the last and k on a few more stitches to bind off.  To make a fuller carrot, give it a little stuffing just before row 18.

Mighty rabbit ears

Eventually, a hat to attach them to, but first Big Ears!  They're done in the round using a magic loop.  Ears and hat will both come out of the same 6 oz skein.

Yarn: Any ol' worsted thing, I used Loops & Threads Silky Soft in aran.
Needles: #7 (4.5 mm) circular needle (for magic loop) or dpn
Gauge: not critical, approximately what is says on the yarn
k=knit, p=purl, m1L=make one left, m1R=make one right, ssk=slip, slip, knit; k2tog=knit 2 together, w&t=wrap and turn
Note that I do not flip my work over, merely reverse direction, so all instructions are for the right side.

Cast on 4 stitches:
1) k4
2) k1, m1L, m1R, k3
3) k5, m1L, m1R, k1
4) k1, m1L, k2, m1R, k5
5) k7, m1L, p2, m1R, k1
6) k8, p2, k2
7) k1, m1L, k4, m1R, k3, p2, k2
8) k9, m1L, p4, m1R, k2
9,10) k10, p4, k2
11) k1, m1L, k6, m1R, k3, p4, k2
12) k11, m1L, p6, m1R, k1
13-15) k12, p6, k2
16) k1, m1L, k8, m1R, k3, p6, k2
17) k13, m1L, p8, m1R, k1
18-21) k14, p8, k2
22) k1, m1L, k10, m1R, k3, p8, k2
23) k15, m1L, p10, m1R, k1
24-28) k16, p10, k2
29) k1, m1L, k12, m1R, k3, p10, k2
30) k17, m1L, p12, m1R, k1
31-38) k18, p12, k2
39) k1, m1L, k14, m1R, k3, p12, k2
40) k19, m1L, p14, m1R, k1
41-51) k20, p14, k2
52) k1, m1L, k16, m1R, k3, p14, k2
53) k21, m1L, p16, m1R, k1
54-71) k22, p16, k2
72) k17, w&t, k14, w&t, k16, p16, k2
73-74) k22, p16, k2
75) k21, ssk, p14, k2tog, k1
76) k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k3, p14, k2
77) k20, p14, k2
78) k19, ssk, p12, k2tog, k1
79) k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k3, p12, k2
80) k13, w&t, k10, w&t, k15, p12, k2
81) k17, ssk, p10, k2tog, k1
82) k1, ssk, k10, k2tog, k3, p10, k2
83) k16, p10, k2
84) k15, ssk, p8, k2tog, k1
85) k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k3, p8, k2
86) k9, w&t, k6, w&t, k11, p8, k2
Cast off in p.

After doing short rows, always remember to pick up your wrap in the next row.  Once the first is finished, it's time to do it all over again for a second.  For the sake of symmetry, I did the second from left to right (the first was right to left).  The same effect can be achieved by knitting along the back section of the work instead of the front.  Since this is knitting the wrong side, k and p are swapped.

summer fling

This is a floppy, wide brimmed hat with a lacy, airy crown perfect for a summer day.



Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream, 2 skeins. This is daisy ombres.
Needles: #7 (4.5 mm) and #6 (4 mm) circular needle or dpn
Gauge: not critical, approximately 20 stitches and 26 rows for 4"x4" (10x10 cm)
k=knit, p=purl, yo=yarn over, ssk=slip, slip, knit, kbf=knit back and front, like knit front and back (kfb), but in the opposite order, it helps to pull the stitch off and put back on to keep them in the correct order along the yarn, bo=bind off.

CO 8 into circle in favorite way. I generally just cast on 9 with a long tail, slip the first stitch and later knit it with the last one.
1 and all odd) k around
2) yo, k1 around
4) yo, k2 around
6) yo, k3 around
8) yo, k4 around
10) yo, k5 around
12) yo, ssk, yo, k4 around
14) (yo, ssk)x2, yo, k3 around
16) (yo, ssk)x3, yo, k2 around
18) (yo, ssk)x4, yo, k1 around
20 and even for 3 inches or so) yo, ssk around
22,24,26,28) p around
30) switch needles down one size: kbf, k4 around
32) kbf, k5 around
34) kbf, k6 around
36) kbf, k7 around
38) kbf, k8 around
40) kbf, k9 around
42) kbf, k10 around
44) kbf, k11 around
46) kbf, k12 around
48) kbf, k13 around
50) kbf, k14 around
51) p around
52) kbf, k15 around
53) k around
54) bo 1 (in k), knit on 2, *bo 4, k on 2* around, bo 3 and wrap last stitch around first bo (picot bind off)

This made a bit fuller brim than really needed. I tried going back to 8 increases around while making the hat, but it does not increase quite fast enough on the smaller needles. After 4 or 5 rows of increasing 16 times, it may be better to intersperse some 8 increase rows as so:
40) kbf, k20 around
42) kbf, k21 around
44) kbf, k11 around
46) kbf, k24 around
48) kbf, k25 around
50) kbf, k13 around
51) p around
52) kbf, 28 around
Then finish as above.

Starch can be added to stiffen the brim. Bug buttons were knitted into the fabric as I went for decoration. For these, it's best to decide where they will go before starting.

slouchy summer cap

Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream, 2 skeins. Natural twists has been used here.
Needles: #7 (4.5 mm) circular needle or dpn
Gauge: not critical, approximately 20 stitches and 26 rows for 4"x4" (10x10 cm)
k=knit, p=purl, yo=yarn over, ssk=slip, slip, knit, k2tog=knit two together.

Cast on 8 and join in a circle. (For best results, cast on 8 plus the first loop, slip the loop and knit it with the last stitch such that the stitch is on top.)
1 and all odd rows: k
2: (yo, k1)x8 -- 16 stitches
4: (yo, k2)x8 -- 24 stitches
6: (yo, k3)x8 -- 32 stitches
8: (yo, k4)x8 -- 40 stitches
10: (yo, k5)x8 -- 48 stitches
12: (yo, k6)x8 -- 56 stitches
14: (yo, ssk, yo, k5)x8 -- 64 stitches
16: ((yo, ssk)x2, yo, k4)x8 -- 72 stitches
18: ((yo, ssk)x3, yo, k3)x8 -- 80 stitches
20: ((yo, ssk)x4, yo, k2)x8 -- 88 stitches
22: ((yo, ssk)x4, yo, k2tog, k1)x8 -- 88 stitches
24: ((yo, ssk)x5, yo, k1)x8 -- 96 stitches
26: ((yo, ssk)x5, yo, k2tog)x8 -- 96 stitches
28: ((yo, ssk)x6)x8 -- 96 stitches
Keep up row 28 for each even row for about 6 inches (22 pattern rows) or more. Up to row 28 used about 1/2 skein, so would be possible to do a short one with 1 skein, but wouldn’t be very slouchy at all.
30,32: yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, (yo, ssk)x4 -- 96 stitches
34: yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, k2tog, (yo, ssk)x3 -- 88 stitches
36: yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, k1, (yo, ssk)x3 -- 88 stitches
38,40,42: p
44: cast off in p. Pull the last loop around the first loop to make the bind off continuous.
Sew on decorations if desired.

For a tighter brim, do one more decrease before the garter rows:
38: yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, k1, k2tog, (yo, ssk)x2 -- 80 stitches
40: yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, k2, (yo, ssk)x2 -- 80 stitches
42,44,46: p
48: cast off in p. Be sure not to cast off too tightly.

fruit basket

I am having visions of a soft fruit basket of cotton yarn. It would have a square bottom and an octagon top. Well, maybe more of an octagon middle since by the top it might be quite circular unless given a bit of wire or something to keep the corners.

The plan, I think, starts with choosing a finished circumference in stitches that is an odd number time eight. The knitting would start with the same squares as before for the bottom. When the number of stitches is half the planned complete number, stop increasing on half of the increases while the others start increasing to the other side. I've been thinking that the increases should center around opposing sides, but perhaps on the same side of each edge would be better. And the more I ponder which is better the more I think it won't really hit an octagon shape at all. The first will go more to a boat shape and the second will continue to be square but will twist a bit as it goes. It really doesn't even need to have the increases change sides.

For a more rounded project, one could start a little earlier in the shaping and just decrease the frequency of increases along the lines that will be stopped. Patterning could be used to emphasis or even generate the octagonal shape, if that is desired...

It's a work in progress, of course, until something has been knit. And then there's always the second one.

Octopus toy

I thought of someone to give it to, so I can make a big octopus. Here it is finished and swimming along on the couch.


I started with the legs. The octopus legs are based on the coiled tube seen here. They need to be stuffed every inch or two while knitting. Starting at the tip of the tentacle:
Bind on 3 stitches. This is knit in the round.
Row 1: k1, yo, k2.
Row 2: k1, yo, kt (knit with stitch twisted), k to end.
Repeat row 2 until there are 12 stitches including the yo.
Row 10: k1, yo, kt, k3, k2tog, k5.
Repeat row 10 until the leg is long enough then cut the yarn and pass it through the stitches to hold them for later.

Twisting the other direction:
Bind on 3 stitches.
Row 1: k2, yo, k1.
Row 2: k until the yo, kt, yo, k1.
Repeat row 2 until there are 12 stitches.
Row 10: k5, k2tog, k3, kt, yo, k1.
Repeat row 10 until long enough then hold the stitches.


The twist wasn't the same size for each of these even though one is the reverse of the other. To complete 8 legs, I knit 2 each in each direction then arranged them how I liked with the smaller twists to the front and back and the bigger twists to the side. Join the legs together simply looping the yarn twice through each of 3 stitches on each leg.


Each leg has some stitches that look straight and some that seem to be on a diagonal. The legs are arranged so that the straight stitches are centered to the outside of the circle (which will become the top of the octopus) and the diagonal stitches are to the inside (which will be the bottom.)

Once connected into a circle, place the 2 unused stitches of the bottom plus one used stitch on either side on each leg onto knitting needles for 32 stitches. Starting between the back legs:
Row 1: k to end
Row 2: k3, (k2tog, k6) x3, k2tog, k2.
Row 3: with last stitch of row 2 (k2tog, k5) x4.
Row 4: k3, (k2tog, k4) x3, k2tog, k1.
Row 5: (k2tog, k3) x4.
Row 6: k2, (k2tog, k2) x3, k2tog
Row 7: (k2tog, k1) x3, k2tog.
Bind off the last 4 stitches by passing the yarn through each once front to back and once back to front and tying tightly. Knots on the inside will not show.

Place the unused stitches of the top on needles together with one on each side of the used stitches for 48 stitches. Starting between the back legs:
Row 1: k to end.
Row 2: (k6, pm (place marker), yo, k6, pm) x4.
Row 3: (yo after marker, k to 2nd marker) x4.
Row 4: k to 1st marker, (yo before marker, k to 2nd marker) x3, yo, k to 1st marker.
Row 5: (yo before marker, k to 2nd marker) x4.
Row 6: k to 1st marker, (yo after marker, k to 2nd marker) x3, yo, k to 1st marker.
Row 7-9: repeat row 4-6.
Row 10 and for a few rows: k80.

Decreases aren't done symmetrically. Instead, the middle is decreased for a few rows, then decreases are added to either side for a few rows. This continues until there are eight decreases. The decreases alternate between k2tog and ssk so that the decrease does not create a spiral. Here is an illustration showing the decreases. The arrow marks the middle (front) and the bar marks the back where rows start. On the 1st 3 decrease rows, the red decreases are made, on the 2nd 3, the blue, then green, purple, cyan.


Row 1 (red): k39, k2tog, k39.
Row 2 and all even rows: k.
Row 3: k39, ssk, k38.
Row 5: k38, k2tog, k38.
Row 7 (blue): k25, ssk, k11, ssk, k11, ssk, k24.
Row 9: k24, k2tog, k10, k2tog, k10, k2tog, k24.
Row 11: k24, ssk, k9, ssk, k9, ssk, k23.
Row 13 (green): k13, k2tog, (k8, k2tog) x4, k13.
Row 15: k13, ssk, (k7, ssk) x4, k12.
Row 17: k12, k2tog, (k6, k2tog) x4, k12.
(Might be time to think about getting the head stuffed.)
Row 19 (purple): k5, ssk, (k5, ssk) x6, k4.
Row 21: k4, k2tog, (k4, k2tog) x6, k4.
Row 23: k4, ssk, (k3, ssk) x6, k2.
Row 25 (cyan): k2tog (includes last stitch from previous round), (k2, k2tog) x8, k2.
Row 27: ssk, (k1, ssk) x8, k1.
Row 29: k2tog x8.
Finish by drawing the yarn through the loops once each direction and pulling tight. Knot and finish.

The yarn and needles don't matter. The above octopus uses about half a skein worth (total) of Caron Simply Soft in persimmon and sage on a set of #3 dpn, which are much smaller than recommended for this yarn. The legs each have a different design of these two colors. Once solid of each, and one each split in half alternating in opposite ways. One is a swirl (alternating every row), one alternates every 4 rows, one alternates every 16 rows. The last starts with 3 rows sage, then 4 rows persimmon, then 5 sage and so on increasing in number each time.

little purse -- gunslinger style

I don't like to be pocketless and I don't like the idea of carrying a purse, necessitating putting the stuff that should be in pockets down somewhere and possibly leaving it all wherever it was put. I need something at least large enough for a pair of keys.


This is my solution. A sort of pocket that can be worn just as a holster would be.

Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream. About 1 skein of earth ombre (naturals) colorway or pick your own color(s).
Needles: #6 (4mm) 29" circular needle.
#3 (3.25mm) double pointed needles.
Tapestry needle.

Gauge: 20 stitches per 4", but not particularly important.

Mine came out to 4" wide and 4.75" tall with 34" belt section, plus ties, and is in desperate need for a bit of blocking.

Cast on 22 stitches on the larger needles. Knit 5 rows, ~0.75". Cast off 4 stitches in the middle on the next row, then chain 4 stitches on at the middle for the next row for a button hole. Continue knitting back and forth until the work is 2.5" long for the flap. Chain on 24 stitches after going your preferred direction and join in the round to start the main body of the bag. Continue knitting in the round for 4.75". During the last row finishing along the front, slip the first of the front stitches over the last back stitch. Slip the last front stitch over the first back stitch at the very end. Cut the yarn leaving enough to graft the bottom together. I liked the purl side better and turned it to have that on the outside.

Decide on a left or right side pocket then pick up 3 stitches on the inside of the bag on that side such that one stitch is in the first line of stitches that becomes the flap and two are not. Knit these as an I-cord on the smaller needles for 4.5". Cut the yarn but don't bind off.

Cast on 3 stitches and knit another piece of I-cord for 11.5". If a left bag, continue knitting across the three stitches of the end of the first I-cord. If a right bag, knit back picking up the end of the first I-cord. Continue knitting back and forth over the 6 stitches for 2.75" then put the left three stitches on a holder and continue in I-cord to make a tie, ~8". Bind off the end by passing the yarn through each stitch back to front, then front to back. Pick up the other 3 stitches again for a second I-cord of the same length with the same bind off.

Pick up 3 stitches on the other side and knit them in I-cord for 4.5" again. Undo the cast on end of the second I-cord to reveal 3 live stitches and connect them to the first as per the instructions for the other side. Knit back and forth on the 6 stitches for 20" then add two I-cord ties as on the other side.

Start a crochet chain just inside the corner of the pocket and chain it for 2". Cut the yarn leaving a long tail. Do the same to the other side. Pull the yarn ends into the top I-cord with a needle such that they go in with a width between that is smaller than the pocket width and come out at the same hole between stitches. Tie the ends together tightly, then pass the ends back into the I-cord.

Finally, add a button to the center at the level of the button hole. Mine is a yarn button. It is tied using the flat button knot found here, tied from a crochet chain. The end that sticks out the front was tucked under and in and then the two ends knotted together. The crochet is only long enough that the button is made up of the chain but this knot of the ends is only the yarn. The ends were then passed through the knitting and tied again. Many other yarn buttons exist, or any handy button may be used.

Variation: If to be used with pants, the gunslinger style can be completed by adding some long crocheted ties to each corner of the bottom that can be tied around the leg for further stabilization.

knit purse: fail

The plan for a bag relies on the rectangle in a round knit piece. It was simply to use the rectangles to make a bag about 20 stitches high, 30 wide, and 9 deep. The brown sides are started from the middle so that they'll come to 9x20 stitches. The variegated Starts purling down one of those brown edges, along the bottom, then up the other side. Stitches are chained on for the flap to go over the top and down about 14 stitches, then the other brown piece was purled on three sides, and finally stitches for the front were chained on. Once the border of that larger rectangle was established, the middle was filled in until finally the stitches were grafted together (like sock toes). The safety pins are holding the live stitches where a handle can be attached.



Knitted on #6 needles with sugar'n cream. It was chosen to be 9 stitches deep so that 3 I-cords could be knitted from them and braided together for the handle, with a piece of flat knitting over the shoulder for comfort, perhaps. This makes it deeper (2" at the bottom, 2.5" at the middle) than really desired. It came out 3.5" high and 6" wide at the edge but 8.5" wide at the bottom. This is a fair bit wider than was hoped for.

The handle was probably going to make it pull open at the sides annoyingly anyway. It'll be pulled apart to make another one with a different and hopefully better design.


Maybe I'll try a "gunslinger" style, like the scribble to the left. Perfect for cell phones, of course. It'll be a greater challenge to get it so it doesn't pull open at the sides a bit.

a rose in any other color

I was looking about at how people put together leaves and finally got to looking at flowers too. There don't seem to be as many flowers around as one might think. I put together one based on the two common techniques for making ruffles. One being to start with a lot more stitches than you might ever want to use and decrease madly, the other being to increase madly and cast off when it starts to seem too much.

I figured the petals should be lighter and the leaves heavier so the leaves get the decreases and the petals get the increases. Needles and yarn aren't terribly important, just something that makes sense together. Smaller yarn/needles makes smaller flowers. The flower above is in "asparagus" Red Heart Eco-Ways and "soft sunshine" Naturally Caron.com on a #9 (5.5 mm) circular needle and came out almost 5 inches wide.

Starting with a nice green for the leaves, cast on 165 stitches and connect into a round taking care not to twist.
Row 1 and all odd rows: knit (K).
Row 2: knit 3 together (K3tog) to the end. I insisted that the middle stitch should land on top so k1, held the next stitch away to pass the 3rd stitch over, then passed the 2nd stitch over. The easiest way, if you don't care which stitch is on top, is to slip two stitches, knit one, then pass those slipped stitches over the new stitch.
Row 4: K4, K3tog, (K8, K3tog)x4, K4.
Row 6: K3, K3tog, (K6, K3tog)x4, K3.
Row 8: K2, K3tog, (K4, K3tog)x4, K2.
Row 10: K1, K3tog, (K2, K3tog)x4, K1.
Row 12: (K3tog)x5.
Row 13: K5. Enthusiastic color changers may wish to do this row in yellow.

This leaves 5 green stitches in the middle. Change to a petal color to do the first, largest, layer of 20 petals. Knitting so that the wrong side faces the leaves (by actually purling or by switching directions), add the petals:
Row 1: K5.
Row 2, 4, 6, 8: Yarn over (YO), K1 to the end.
Row 3 and all odd rows: K to end. This will give 80 stitches when row 9 is finished.
Row 10: YO, K3, YO, K1 to end.
Row 12: YO, K5, YO, K1 to end.
Row 14: YO, K7, YO, K1 to end.
Row 15: K and cast off. I used a slightly softer cast off than the usual. To do this: cut the string about 3 times longer than the length to be cast off. In this case, this can be somewhat over 6 feet of yarn to work with. Thread a yarn needle and pull the yarn through two stitches back to front, the back through the first stitch, front to back. Pull off this first stitch and put it on the other needle as the last stitch. Continue by going forward through 2, back through 1 and dropping the 1.

For the next 10 petals, thread the yarn on a needle through the same route as the first row of the large petal. Since this is going last to first, proceed in a circle in the opposite direction as your knitting. Put the knitting needle through the 5 loops, this is row 1.
Row 2, 4, 6: YO, K1 to the end.
Row 3 and all odd rows: K to end. This will give 40 stitches when row 7 is finished.
Row 8: YO, K3, YO, K1 to end.
Row 10: YO, K5, YO, K1 to end.
Row 12: YO, K7, YO, K1 to end.
Row 13: K and cast off.

Draw the yarn through the center for 5 more loops and put them on the needles for the last 5 petals. This is row 1.
Row 2, 4: YO, K1 the end.
Row 3 and all odd rows: K to end. This will give 20 stitches when row 5 is finished.
Row 6: YO, K3, YO, K1 to end.
Row 8: YO, K5, YO, K1 to end.
Row 10: YO, K7, YO, K1 to end.
Row 11: K and cast off.

For a central button decoration, draw the yarn through the center for 5 more loops and put them on the needles. This is row 1.
Row 2: YO, K1 to the end.
Row 3,4: K.
Row 5: knit 2 together to the end.
Pass the yarn through each stitch and pull somewhat tight, then pass it through each in the other direction. This leaves the purl side showing. Weave in all the ends and finish.

Of course, the pieces of the pattern can be mixed and altered. This flower is in "dill", "ivory", and "peacock" Red Heart Eco-Ways Bamboo Wool (nice stuff) and a little of the soft sunshine above on #6 (4 mm) needles and comes to 3.5 inches. The leaves start with 135 stitches which are then reduced as in the first row and skipping rows 4,5. The first two petal segments are 2 rows shorter. The center was bound off when it hit 20 stitches instead of making the petals and the center was left with the bit of green showing.

Four Cornered Round Hat

This silly beret style hat is inspired by the knitting technique used for the dizzy dishcloth to knit a square in the round. The colors spiral outward from the center, but this time the yarn overs are knit twisted so there are no holes and it is done in stockinette instead of garter. Twisting the stitch does tighten up the increase rows, so one less row in the middle is needed. The square created this way was not quite as flat, but still fairly flat. When I was searching for a bind off technique I liked, it occurred to me that it would have been easier to knit from the brim instead of the top.

Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream. About 1 skein each of sage green (solids) and landscape (stripes) colorways or pick your own colors.
Needles: #6 (4mm) 29" circular needle.
Also needs a tapestry needle at the very end.

Gauge: 20 stitches per 4", but not particularly important.

Abbreviations: K = knit, P = purl, YO = yarn over, K2tg = knit 2 together, SSK = slip 2 (as if to purl), pass them back and knit them together. CA = solid color, CC = contrasting (stripes) color, PM = place marker. The YO are always knitted with a twist: Krt = knit with a right twist, Klt = knit with a left twist.

Pattern:
This is done generally as a magic loop on the circular needle. Cast on 4 stitches of CA then 4 more of CC. This cast on will be unraveled at the end. With CC on the cable, K2 of CC into CA, PM, K2, PM. Move the CC cast on to the needle and the stitches just done to the cable, K2 of CA into CC taking care not to leave a twist. PM, K2. The markers now mark the corners of the hat and a "side" is the space between markers.


Row 2: With CA, K1, YO, K1. Slip the markers as you come to them. K1, YO, K1. With CC, K1, YO, K1, K1, YO, K1.

Row 3: With CC, K1, Krt, K1, K1, Krt, K1 . With CA, K1, Krt, K1, K1, Krt, K1. The twist direction is not actually important on this row. For the right twist, you just knit into the back of the YO.

Row 4 and all even rows on the top of the hat: With CA, K1, YO, K until 1 stitch is left before the marker, YO, K1. Repeat for a second side. With CC, repeat for the last 2 sides.

Row 5 and all odd rows on the top of the hat: With CC, K1, Krt, K until 2 stitches are left before the marker, Klt, K1. Repeat for a second side. With CA, repeat for the last 2 sides.

Continue until finishing the odd row with 45 stitches. This finishes the top of the hat which should be about 9"x9".

Side row 1: P 2 sides with CA. P 2 sides with CC. Continue to carry the markers along.

Row 2-7: K 2 sides with the color on hand. Switch colors at the halfway point and K 2 more sides.

Row 8: P 2 sides with CC. P 2 sides with CA. This finishes the side.

Bottom row 1 and all odd rows while decreasing: With CA K1, K2tog, K until 2 stitches are left before the marker, SSK, K1. Repeat for a 2nd side. Repeat with CC for 2 more sides.

Row 2 and all even rows: With CC, K 2 sides. With CA K the 2 remaining sides.

Decrease until there are 25 stitches remaining on each side to fit a head about 22". K an additional 8 rows continuing to change colors at the middle point. Cut CC and K 8 more rows in CA.

Use a stretchy bind off. The second one on this page fits the character of the hat well but needs to be modified for the round. K1, then pass it back to the left needle. K1 into the same stitch. Now *K1, pass 2 stitches back, K2tog*. Repeat between the asterics until all the stitches are used. Cut the yarn and pull the last stitch through. Thread it around the 2nd stitch knitted in the bind off and back through where it had been. This makes the bind off a continuous loop.

At the top, undo the cast on and one row to leave 4 live loops of each color. Thread the ends through these loops and pull it somewhat tight. Weave in all the ends.


Tip: Eventually the work is large enough to knit in the round normally, but do not stop the magic loop working before its time. If the work is stretched on the needle when knitting in the round, it's not really big enough for that yet.

dizzy dishcloth

There's probably far too many of them and yet you still have to start with a washcloth sometime. Oh, what a boring start.

I have all sorts of terrycloth washcloths I got from the dollar store for doing dishes. They hold soap great and wipe up the spills wonderfully, but they do not scrub well at all. I came upon a site claiming that a bit of seed stitch in a thick cotton yarn is the best scrubber for dish washing. I have a couple based on that, but I personally feel that garter works better. This cloth is not only in garter, but the way I use it, the stitches always seem to be in the correct direction for scrubbing the dishes.

(Another dizzy dishcloth in violet and white.)

Inspired by: Reverse Miter Dishcloth

Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream. About 1/3 skein each of bright blue and sunshine colorways or pick your own colors.
Needles: I've done it on #3 (3.25mm) double pointed needles or a #6 (4mm) 29" circular needle with much the same effect.
Also needs a tapestry needle at the very end.

Gauge: 20 stitches per 4", but not particularly important. In garter stitch, 2 rows take up just about the same length as 1 stitch.

Abbreviations: K = knit, P = purl, YO = yarn over, KC = knit color, PC = purl color.

Pattern:
Provisional cast on 4 stitches of each color. One way to do this is a figure 8 cast on, which should be done tightly on a thin piece of waste yarn since the stitches will only be knit into once. Another way would be a cable cast on. This requires knitting an extra row and some fixing of the first loop after pulling it out to get the live stitches.

Choose one color to knit (KC) and the other to purl (or knit backwards as I do, PC). Distribute the cast on over 4 dpn with 2 stitches each. If using a circular needle instead, the corners where the dpn would have met will eventually need ring markers that loop around the needle and are slipped when come to. It is easiest to avoid tension problems if the ends never catch up to each other, but this can't be done on a circular.

Row 1: Knit KC into the cast on of PC. Join it into a round by purling PC into the cast on of KC, taking care not to twist.

Row2: With KC, K1, YO, K1 on each of two sides. With PC, P1, YO, P1 on the remaining two sides.

Row 3 and all odd rows: With KC, knit each of two sides. With PC, purl each of the remaining two sides.

Row 4 and all even rows: With KC, K1, YO, knit until there is one stitch left on the side, YO, K1 over two sides. With PC, P1, YO, purl until there is one stitch left on the side, YO, P1 for the remaining two sides.

The colors change with each row at the halfway point leading to a swirl pattern and no apparent jog points. Continue knitting until the square is large enough, casting off on an odd row. For an 8" cloth, this should be when the work is 41 stitches on each side. On the last cast off stitch, cut the yarn leaving a few inches, pull the end out of the loop, around the first loop with a tapestry needle and back through the previous loops as it had been before pulling out. Weave in the ends.

At the center of the cloth, run the end of the yarn through the 8 loops a few times and weave in the ends.

Knitting an 8" square of garter stitch on 7" dpn: This can be done even though the garter tends to push out to its entire width. The stitches just need held scrunched up since they won't stay that way by themselves. I managed this with a piece of wire wrapped around each needle I was not using and was able to control the yarn on the needle I was knitting on enough to need no extra help. End caps for the needles could be used if this is not the case.