wide brimmed hat

This hat has a stiff brim supported by wire.  Because of this, it has a very large brim without much yarn used.  Since it is knit, the sunlight is only partly blocked.  It is sized for an extra large head over 24" (but I'll put the modification for a normal 22" head in parenthesis).

This one happens to be knit in Caron Simply Soft in the color limelight on a #8 (5 mm) cable needle.  This gave a gauge of 18 stitches to 4".  It took a bit over 100 yards (less than half the skein).  I also used a second cable with smaller needles in the provisional cast on.  An 16 gauge galvanized wire (about 50") holds up the brim.

k = knit
k2tog = knit two together
yo, s1 = yarn over, slip one
k2tbl = knit two through the back loop

Provisionally cast on 216 (198) stitches.  I used a figure 8 cast on with the cable of the extra cable needle.  Join in a circle being careful not to twist and k 2 rows then knit the next row together with the live loops from the provisional cast on.  This forms the tube in which the wire will sit.
1) k22, k2tog (k20, k2tog) around
2 and each even row) k
3) k21, k2tog (k19, k2tog)
5) k20, k2tog (k18, k2tog)
7) k19, k2tog (k17, k2tog)
9) k18, k2tog (k16, k2tog)
11) k17, k2tog (k15, k2tog)
13) k16, k2tog (k14, k2tog)
15) k15, k2tog (k13, k2tog)
17) k14, k2tog (k12, k2tog)
19) k13, k2tog (k11, k2tog)
21) k12, k2tog (k10, k2tog)
23) k11, k2tog (k9, k2tog)
For the hatband shown, repeat these two rows:
1) yo, s1 around
2) k2tbl around (the yo and slipped stitch together)
Go for about 6 repeats.  Continue knitting until there are 3" or so from the brim (my hat is a little too shallow) then p a row and continue as:
1) k10, k2tog (k8, k2tog)
2 and each even row) k
3) k9, k2tog (go to step 7)
5) k8, k2tog
7) k7, k2tog
9) k6, k2tog
11) k5, k2tog
13) k4, k2tog
15) k3, k2tog
17) k2, k2tog
19) k1, k2tog
21) k2tog
22) pull yarn through the final 8 stitches and weave in the ends.  Thread the wire through the sleeve at the edge and tie the ends to the side of the wire with thread wrapped a few times then tied.

garter brim hat

This is a soft hat with a brim.  Since it is soft, the brim is fairly floppy, but can be pushed out of the eyes and will stay that way.  It can be folded in ways that help it stay up as well.  It is sized for a normal 22" head.

This one happens to be knit in Caron Simply Soft in the color limelight on a #7 (4.5 mm) cable needle.  This gave a gauge of 12 stitches to 2.5".  It took about 200 yards (more than half the skein).

k = knit
p = purl
kfb = knit front and back (an increase)

Cast on 8 stitches and join in the round or start with your favorite 8 stitch circular start.
1) kfb around
2 and even rounds) k
3) kfb, k1 around
5) kfb, k2 around
7) kfb, k3 around
9) kfb, k4 around
11) kfb, k5 around
13) kfb, k6 around
15) kfb, k7 around
17) kfb, k8 around
19) kfb, k9 around
21) kfb, k10 around
23) kfb, k11 around
25) k around for 2 to 2.5 inches
To have the hatband as shown, knit in pattern found here for another 1.5 to 2 inches ending on row 3.  Otherwise knit plain or use another desirable pattern.  There should be 4 to 5 inches between the increases and brim at the end.
For the brim:
1) kfb around
2 and even rounds) p
3 and odd rounds) k
Continue until the brim is wide enough, about 9 sets.  Cast off on a purl row.

twisted brioche stitch in the round

I wanted to do some brioche stitch as a decorative hatband, so had to figure out how to do it in the round.  I decided to do the twisted brioche stitch found here.  I also did one with the top Tunisian brioche found here, but that was simple.  The twisted brioche is a little more difficult partly because it becomes a repeat of six rows instead of just three.  It is also expressed in a style similar to using a "yarn forward" followed by knitting or a "yarn back" followed by purling when what is actually desired is a simple "yarn over".  It's the third row that is particularly problematic.

Anyway, with my interpretation of the instructions translated to in-the-round, done with Caron Simply Soft on #7 (4.5 mm) needles, this stitch looks like this:

Abriviations:
yos1 = s1yo = slip a stitch while doing a yarn over.  This results in a pair of stitches in the same spot which is common to brioche.  They are usually knit as one on the next row.
k2tog = knit two together
p2tog = purl two together
k = knit
p = purl

Instructions (requires a multiple of 3 stitches):
1) yos1, k2tog (repeat these all the way around)
2) p2tog, s1yo
3) k1, k the yo but leave it on the left needle, k2tog (yo and stitch)
4) p2tog, s1yo
5) yos1, k2tog
6) p2tog, catch the yo with the left needle and p it, p1

Rabbit hat

Why is it that babies get all the fun hats?  Surely adults need to have fun too.  Is it because they worry about what others will think of them if they have wild things?  I couldn't find a rabbit themed hat, so I had to figure it out myself.  Now I've got a hat suitable for people nick-named "Rabbit" and drivers of Volkswagen Golfs, but probably not Playboy bunnies.

 

Yarn: Any ol' worsted thing, I used Loops & Threads Silky Soft in aran.  It was much less than one 6 oz skein.
Needles: #7 (4.5 mm) circular needle (for magic loop) and one extra needle the same size or smaller

Gauge: not critical, approximately what is says on the yarn (18 per 4")
k=knit, k2tog=knit two together, k3tog=knit three together: slip 1 stitch, k2tog, then pass the slipped stitch over, ssk=slip two stitches and knit them together, yo=yarn over

First, knit a couple ears.  The big floppy rabbit ears in a size suitable for an adult hat are already blogged.  Then knit your favorite hat and attach the ears.  I wanted something a little bit fancy and fit with the rabbit theme and wasn't looking for something all that warm, so made a carrot edging and used a simple lace to decorate the main portion of the hat.

Knit 4 carrots for the edging.  The carrot edging is also previously blogged.  The really brave will do them in orange and green.  Connect them into a loop without twisting and pick up 90 stitches in knit along the flat edge and start knitting:
k 4 rows
lace:
1) *yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1*
2) k
3) *k1, yo, k3tog, yo, k2*
4) k
Repeat these rows a total of 4 times
k 8 rows, then decrease with *k8, k2tog*
k 4 rows and decrease with k2, k2tog, *k7, k2tog*, k5
k 2 rows and then k3, k2tog, *k6, k2tog*, k3
k 1 row then *k5, k2tog*
k 1 row then k1, k2tog, *k4, k2tog*, k3
k 1 row then *k3, k2tog*
k 1 row then *k2tog, k2*
k 1 row then *k2tog, k1*
*k2tog* and pull the end of the yarn through the last 9 stitches.

This makes a fairly unpatterned top for the hat.  For locating ears, I put mine toward the back a little bit.  Here's a photo for help in locating the ears and to see how the top comes out:

I picked up the stitches along the carrots so that they hand down from the hat.  They could be picked up so that they sort of fold over the lower section of the hat in which case some of the plain rows after the lace should be moved to before the lace so that the carrots stop before the lace starts.  There's more photos of the hat on my Ravelry project page.

carrot edging

I looked around for an edging that could be a carrot, but couldn't find anything like that.  It took a few tries, but I created something I like.  I'll link them together and pick up stitches from the side to start a hat.  Here is that edge of carrots.  It is a mix of flat and in-the-round.  Since I knit back and forth, the instructions are from the right side.

This just happens to be what I used for my project.  Any other project would expect to use about the same as the rest of the project, be that fingering weight or bulky.

Yarn: Any ol' worsted thing, I used Loops & Threads Silky Soft in aran.
Needles: #7 (4.5 mm) circular needle (for magic loop) and one extra needle the same size or smaller

Gauge: not critical, approximately what is says on the yarn
k=knit, p=purl, yo=yarn over, k1b=k1 through the back of the loop, p2tog=purl 2 together, CO=cast off

Starting at the right on 3 stitches:

1) p1, k1, p1

2) start I-cord by slipping the stitches to the other end of the needle and k3

3) k3, yo

4) k3, k1b

5) k4, yo (this is a good time to switch from I-cord technique to a magic loop technique)

6) k4, k1b

7) k5, yo

8) k5, k1b

9) k6, yo

10) k6, k1b

11) k7, yo

12) k7, k1b

13) k8, yo

14) k8, k1b

15) k9, yo

16) k9, k1b

17) k10

18) Place the last 5 stitches on the extra needle, knit the back stitches together with the front stitches, this reverts it to flat knitting

19) p2tog, k1 and cast off the previous stitch, p2 (3 stitches)

20) p2, k1

21) k1, p2

22) p2, k1, k on 3 stitches

23) CO 2 stitches, place the 3rd back on the right needle and k together with the next stitch, p2 (3 stitches)

24) p2, k1

25) k1, p2

26) p2, k1, k on 5 stitches

27) CO 4 stitches, place the 5th back on the right needle and k with the next, p2

28) p2, k1

29) k1, p2

30) p2, k1, k on 3 stitche

31) CO 2 stitches, place the 3rd back on the right needle and k with the next, p2

Repeat as often as required.

To make a fuller carrot top, k on 4 stitches at the end of rows 24 and 28, then CO 3 and k the 4th with the next stitch for rows 25 and 29.  Even fuller, stop binding off before the last and k on a few more stitches to bind off.  To make a fuller carrot, give it a little stuffing just before row 18.

Mighty rabbit ears

Eventually, a hat to attach them to, but first Big Ears!  They're done in the round using a magic loop.  Ears and hat will both come out of the same 6 oz skein.

Yarn: Any ol' worsted thing, I used Loops & Threads Silky Soft in aran.
Needles: #7 (4.5 mm) circular needle (for magic loop) or dpn
Gauge: not critical, approximately what is says on the yarn
k=knit, p=purl, m1L=make one left, m1R=make one right, ssk=slip, slip, knit; k2tog=knit 2 together, w&t=wrap and turn
Note that I do not flip my work over, merely reverse direction, so all instructions are for the right side.

Cast on 4 stitches:
1) k4
2) k1, m1L, m1R, k3
3) k5, m1L, m1R, k1
4) k1, m1L, k2, m1R, k5
5) k7, m1L, p2, m1R, k1
6) k8, p2, k2
7) k1, m1L, k4, m1R, k3, p2, k2
8) k9, m1L, p4, m1R, k2
9,10) k10, p4, k2
11) k1, m1L, k6, m1R, k3, p4, k2
12) k11, m1L, p6, m1R, k1
13-15) k12, p6, k2
16) k1, m1L, k8, m1R, k3, p6, k2
17) k13, m1L, p8, m1R, k1
18-21) k14, p8, k2
22) k1, m1L, k10, m1R, k3, p8, k2
23) k15, m1L, p10, m1R, k1
24-28) k16, p10, k2
29) k1, m1L, k12, m1R, k3, p10, k2
30) k17, m1L, p12, m1R, k1
31-38) k18, p12, k2
39) k1, m1L, k14, m1R, k3, p12, k2
40) k19, m1L, p14, m1R, k1
41-51) k20, p14, k2
52) k1, m1L, k16, m1R, k3, p14, k2
53) k21, m1L, p16, m1R, k1
54-71) k22, p16, k2
72) k17, w&t, k14, w&t, k16, p16, k2
73-74) k22, p16, k2
75) k21, ssk, p14, k2tog, k1
76) k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k3, p14, k2
77) k20, p14, k2
78) k19, ssk, p12, k2tog, k1
79) k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k3, p12, k2
80) k13, w&t, k10, w&t, k15, p12, k2
81) k17, ssk, p10, k2tog, k1
82) k1, ssk, k10, k2tog, k3, p10, k2
83) k16, p10, k2
84) k15, ssk, p8, k2tog, k1
85) k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k3, p8, k2
86) k9, w&t, k6, w&t, k11, p8, k2
Cast off in p.

After doing short rows, always remember to pick up your wrap in the next row.  Once the first is finished, it's time to do it all over again for a second.  For the sake of symmetry, I did the second from left to right (the first was right to left).  The same effect can be achieved by knitting along the back section of the work instead of the front.  Since this is knitting the wrong side, k and p are swapped.

summer fling

This is a floppy, wide brimmed hat with a lacy, airy crown perfect for a summer day.



Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream, 2 skeins. This is daisy ombres.
Needles: #7 (4.5 mm) and #6 (4 mm) circular needle or dpn
Gauge: not critical, approximately 20 stitches and 26 rows for 4"x4" (10x10 cm)
k=knit, p=purl, yo=yarn over, ssk=slip, slip, knit, kbf=knit back and front, like knit front and back (kfb), but in the opposite order, it helps to pull the stitch off and put back on to keep them in the correct order along the yarn, bo=bind off.

CO 8 into circle in favorite way. I generally just cast on 9 with a long tail, slip the first stitch and later knit it with the last one.
1 and all odd) k around
2) yo, k1 around
4) yo, k2 around
6) yo, k3 around
8) yo, k4 around
10) yo, k5 around
12) yo, ssk, yo, k4 around
14) (yo, ssk)x2, yo, k3 around
16) (yo, ssk)x3, yo, k2 around
18) (yo, ssk)x4, yo, k1 around
20 and even for 3 inches or so) yo, ssk around
22,24,26,28) p around
30) switch needles down one size: kbf, k4 around
32) kbf, k5 around
34) kbf, k6 around
36) kbf, k7 around
38) kbf, k8 around
40) kbf, k9 around
42) kbf, k10 around
44) kbf, k11 around
46) kbf, k12 around
48) kbf, k13 around
50) kbf, k14 around
51) p around
52) kbf, k15 around
53) k around
54) bo 1 (in k), knit on 2, *bo 4, k on 2* around, bo 3 and wrap last stitch around first bo (picot bind off)

This made a bit fuller brim than really needed. I tried going back to 8 increases around while making the hat, but it does not increase quite fast enough on the smaller needles. After 4 or 5 rows of increasing 16 times, it may be better to intersperse some 8 increase rows as so:
40) kbf, k20 around
42) kbf, k21 around
44) kbf, k11 around
46) kbf, k24 around
48) kbf, k25 around
50) kbf, k13 around
51) p around
52) kbf, 28 around
Then finish as above.

Starch can be added to stiffen the brim. Bug buttons were knitted into the fabric as I went for decoration. For these, it's best to decide where they will go before starting.

slouchy summer cap

Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream, 2 skeins. Natural twists has been used here.
Needles: #7 (4.5 mm) circular needle or dpn
Gauge: not critical, approximately 20 stitches and 26 rows for 4"x4" (10x10 cm)
k=knit, p=purl, yo=yarn over, ssk=slip, slip, knit, k2tog=knit two together.

Cast on 8 and join in a circle. (For best results, cast on 8 plus the first loop, slip the loop and knit it with the last stitch such that the stitch is on top.)
1 and all odd rows: k
2: (yo, k1)x8 -- 16 stitches
4: (yo, k2)x8 -- 24 stitches
6: (yo, k3)x8 -- 32 stitches
8: (yo, k4)x8 -- 40 stitches
10: (yo, k5)x8 -- 48 stitches
12: (yo, k6)x8 -- 56 stitches
14: (yo, ssk, yo, k5)x8 -- 64 stitches
16: ((yo, ssk)x2, yo, k4)x8 -- 72 stitches
18: ((yo, ssk)x3, yo, k3)x8 -- 80 stitches
20: ((yo, ssk)x4, yo, k2)x8 -- 88 stitches
22: ((yo, ssk)x4, yo, k2tog, k1)x8 -- 88 stitches
24: ((yo, ssk)x5, yo, k1)x8 -- 96 stitches
26: ((yo, ssk)x5, yo, k2tog)x8 -- 96 stitches
28: ((yo, ssk)x6)x8 -- 96 stitches
Keep up row 28 for each even row for about 6 inches (22 pattern rows) or more. Up to row 28 used about 1/2 skein, so would be possible to do a short one with 1 skein, but wouldn’t be very slouchy at all.
30,32: yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, (yo, ssk)x4 -- 96 stitches
34: yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, k2tog, (yo, ssk)x3 -- 88 stitches
36: yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, k1, (yo, ssk)x3 -- 88 stitches
38,40,42: p
44: cast off in p. Pull the last loop around the first loop to make the bind off continuous.
Sew on decorations if desired.

For a tighter brim, do one more decrease before the garter rows:
38: yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, k1, k2tog, (yo, ssk)x2 -- 80 stitches
40: yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, k2, (yo, ssk)x2 -- 80 stitches
42,44,46: p
48: cast off in p. Be sure not to cast off too tightly.