near mits: somewhat fingerless mittens

These come from wondering what will really keep my hands warm while also allowing operation of a mildly fancy camera while hiking. For warmest hands, one wants thick mittens. For doing things without taking off the cold protection, one wants thin gloves. These are incompatible. Most times, only the thumb and a finger are really needed. So here come the near mits.

I'm doing this pattern in two ways: conceptual and concrete. The conceptual should be sufficient to fit them to any hand using any yarn or needle, but requires a bit extra to follow. The concrete is what exactly I did to make this work for my hands on the needles I chose with the yarn I chose. Since hands, needles, yarn, and tightness of technique all vary quite a bit, this is unlikely to work for too many variations. But I do have some rather average hands.

Conceptual pattern:

Wrist: First, you will need to have some idea of your gauge. Then decide how far up the arm they should go and measure the circumference there and of the hand at the palm (no thumb). Cast on enough stitches for the arm measurement and join in the round. Knit many rows, decreasing evenly to the correct number of stitches for the hand measurement over the desired length. Usually this knitting will start with some ribbing of some sort.

 Hand start: Measure around the thumb to determine how many stitches will be needed to go around it (a) and measure from the base of the hand to where the thumb slits off to determine how many rows are needed (b). Add a-4 stitches in pairs near the first and last stitch evenly over b rows.

Thumb: Knit (a/2)-1 stitches, make one next to the last stitch. Across from this, make another stitch and knit the (a/2)-1 stitches back to the start. Place the rest of the stitches on a holder. This is the thumb. Continue knitting around, the last few rows in a k1, p1 pattern, until almost as long as the thumb, then cast off loosely (or use a stretchy bind off) in pattern. Wrap the last stitch around the first stitch to make a complete circle of bind-off. (For sufficiently small gauge, more stitches may be required for the crossing in which case they can be chained on. Like these two made stitches, the new loops will be knitted in again when starting the rest of the hand and a similar procedure will be needed when slitting off the finger and starting the closed off fingers.)

Finger: Knit into the same loop as the first made stitch, then around the held stitches and into the same loop as the last made stitch. Knit rows until long enough to cover the first joint. Measure around the finger to determine how many stitches are needed to go around it (c). Knit (c/2)-1 stitches, make one, go to the other side, make another and knit (c/2)-1 stitches back to the start. Place the rest of the stitches on a holder. Knit around, the last few rows in k1, p1 pattern, until almost as long as the finger and bind off like the thumb.

Capped fingers: Knit into the same loop as the first made stitch for the finger, then around the held stitches and into the same loop as the last made stitch. Knit around, decreasing when appropriate, to leave just enough space for the other fingers. Graft the end (kitchener) to finish. Weave in the ends.

Concrete pattern:

Choose either a long wrist or a short wrist, then continue on to the hand portion.

This was done with Stitch Nation Full o' Sheep on #8 (5 mm) cable needle generating an approximate gauge of 9 stitches and 12 rows per 2". Uses one ball. Fits hand approximately 8" around and 7" long from wrist to longest finger tip.

k = knit
p = purl
m = make: pull up the yarn between the last worked stitch and the next stitch and knit into this with a twist.
k2tog = knit two together
ssk = slip a stitch, slip another, then knit them together.

Long wrist:

Cast on 40. Place marker and join in round.
k1, p1 for 4 rows;
k 4 rows;
k 3, k2tog, k to end;
k 7 rows;
k 22, k2tog, k to end;
k 7 rows;
k 14, k2tog, k to end;
k 7 rows;
k 32, k2tog, k 3;
k 1 row;
k2, p2 for 8 rows;
k 1 row;

Short wrist: 

Cast on 36. Place marker and join in the round.

k2, p2; for 14 rows;
k 1 row;

hand:

k1, m1, k 34, m1, k1;
k 2 row;
k2, m1, k 34, m1, k2;
k 2 rows;
k3, m1, k 34, m1, k3;
k 2 rows;
k4, m1, k 34, m1, k4;
k 2 rows;
k5, m1, k 34, m1, k5;
k 1 row;
k6, m1, place 34 on a holder, m1, k6;
k 6 rows;
k1, p1 for 4 rows;
Cast off loosely to finish thumb. Loop the last stitch around the first cast off stitch to finish in the round. (This will require a needle.)

k into the same loop as the first made stitch, k the held stitches, k into the same loop as the last made stitch;
k 18 rows;
k6, m1, hold 24, m1, k6;
k 1 row;
k1, p1 for 4 rows;
cast off loosely.

k into the same loop as the first made stitch, k the held stitches, k the same loop as the last made stitch;
k 1 row;
k10, k2tog, k2, ssk, k10;
k 1 row;
k9, k2tog, k2, ssk, k9;
k8, k2tog, k2, ssk, k8;
k7, k2tog, k2, ssk, k7;
(k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1) x2;
Graft the end. (Kitchener stitch.)

To close the bits:

Since one may not want open fingers on both hands, it is useful to be able to make a full thumb and/or full fingers.

For the thumb:

Stop before the rows of k1, p1 and:
k 6 rows (12 total);
(k2tog, k1)x4, k2tog;
draw cord through the stitches;

For the fingers without splitting one off:

After knitting 18 rows
k 1 row;
k15, k2tog, k2, ssk, k15;
k 1 row;
k14, k2tog, k2, ssk, k14;
k13, k2tog, k2, ssk, k13;
(k1, ssk, k9, k2tog, k1)x2;
(k1, ssk, k7, k2tog, k1)x2;
Graft the end. (Kitchener stitch.)