I took quite a lot of measurements to get the size to fit my hand. I am sure there are some general rules that would allow one to do this with a couple, but I don't know them.
A start of the measurements and the basic idea. |
Executed exactly as planned. |
I will again attempt to communicate how to make these in any size with any gauge, but will also write down exactly what I did in bold for my hand and gauge. I used Patons Classic Wool, a worsted weight yarn that is 100% wool. I knitted on US #6 (4mm) needles. In stockinette, my gauge is 22 stitches and 29 rows for 4 inches square. The completed project fits a hand 8" around and 7" long. It used 2/3 of the skein for two glovtens.
Measure length around hand. (For me, 8 inches.) Use the gauge to calculate how many stitches for this length and cast on the nearest amount divisible by 4. (8"/4"*stitches = 44 stitches. This is divisible by 4 already.) Cast on this number of stitches and continue on k2, p2 ribbing for 2", then knit a row.
Cast on 44 stitches;(k2, p2)x11 for 15 rows;
k44;
Measure from the base of the hand where the thumb splits (a in the illustration above) and calculate a number of rows from this. (2.25"/4"*rows = 16.3 rows, I used 17.)
Measure around thumb and calculate the nearest even number of stitches. (2.5" becomes 14 stitches.)
Knit the number of rows calculated while evenly adding the 4 less than stitches calculated (10 stitches) in pairs next to the original 2nd and 2nd to last stitch. Make the stitch by pulling up the yarn below between the stitches and knitting it twisted.
k1, m1, k42, m1, k1;
k46 for 2 rows;
k2, m1, k42, m1, k2;
k48 for 3 rows;
k3, m1, k42, m1, k3;
k50 for 2 rows;
k4, m1, k42, m1, k4;
k52 for 3 rows;
k5, m1, k42, m1, k5;
k54 for 2 rows;
To start the thumb, knit across 1 less than the number of pairs added and make a stitch, then put all but an equal number of stitches on a holder and make a stitch on the opposite side, then knit to the end.
k6, m1, put 42 stitches on a holder, m1, k6;
Measure the shortest thumb length and knit one row less than this length. (2" is 15 rows.) Close the thumb using repeats of *k2tog, k1* or *k1, k2tog*, whichever is required to not end with a k2tog on a single stitch. Pull the yarn through the final stitches a couple times and weave in.
k14 for 14 rows;
(k2tog, k1)x5, k2tog;
pull yarn through remaining stitches;
Measure from the base of hand to first joint on first finger (b) and subtract the length already done (a) to find a number of rows. (4.875”-2.25” = 2.625” left. 19 rows.) Knit into the same loop as the first made stitch and around the held stitches, then into the same loop as the second made stitch. Continue around for the rest of the calculated rows.
k the same loop as the 1st made stitch, k42, k the same loop as the 2nd made stitch;
k44 for 18 rows;
Measure around finger and calculate the number of stitches. This should not be less than the cast on stitches plus 12 all divided by 4. (2.5” is 14 stitches. (44+12)/4=14 also.) Knit one less than half these stitches, make one, place the rest to an equal number of stitches on a holder, make another across from the first and knit to the end to split off the first finger.
k6, m1, put 32 on a holder, m1, k6;
Measure from the joint to the end and calculate the number of rows. (1.875” is 14 rows.) Knit one less than this number of rows and then finish the same way as the thumb.
k14 for 13 rows;
(k2tog, k1)x5, k2tog;
draw yarn through remaining stitches a couple rounds and weave in the end;
Measure to the first joint of the second finger (c) and subtract what has already been done (b) to calculate a number of rows. (5.2”-4.875” is 2.35 rows. 2 or 3, go with 2) Knit on similar to before including the made stitches and knit these rows.
k into the same loop as the 1st made stitch, k32, and k into the same loop as the 2nd made stitch;
k34;
Measure around the second finger for a number of stitches. This should not be less than for the previous finger. (2.5” is 14 stitches. Same as previous.) Knit 1 less than half these, make one, put the rest on a holder leaving an equal number of stitches on the far side, make another across from the first, and knit to the end.
k6, m1, place 22 on a holder, m1, k6;
Measure length from the joint to the end for a number of rows. (2” is 14.5 rows. Use 15.) Knit 1 less than these rows and finish like on the thumb.
k14 for 14 rows;(k2tog, k1)x5, k2tog;
pull yarn through remaining stitches and weave in;
Measure 3rd finger from base of the hand and subtract what has already been done for a number of rows. (6.5”-5.2” is 9.425 rows.)
Measure pinky from base of the hand and subtract what has already been done for a number of rows. (5.5”-5.2” is 2.175 rows.) K into the made stitches and the remaining stitches as before. Finish the number or rows to cover the 4th finger. Start decreasing near the center or each round to finish decreasing when long enough for the 3rd finger. (Begin decreases after 2 rows, finish in 9.)
k into the same loop as the 1st made stitch, k22, then into the same loop as the 2nd made stitch;
k24;
k9, k2tog, k2, ssk, k9;
k22;
k8, k2tog, k2, ssk, k8; (20 stitches)
k7, k2tog, k2, ssk, k7; (18 stitches)
k6, k2tog, k2, ssk, k6; (16 stitches)
k5, k2tog, k2, ssk, k5; (14 stitches)
k4, k2tog, k2, ssk, k4; (12 stitches)
(k2tog, k1)x4;
draw the yarn through the last stitches;
Once the first is complete, repeat for the second. While hands tend to have differences between left and right, you will probably want to complete these in the same way for the second one to be symmetrical, so it is good practice to write down your steps if you are not following the same exact steps I used.
Variations:
Well, one variation. Fingerless: Stop 4 rows short of the end on the thumb and/or fingers, then bind off in purl. Wrap the last stitch around the first to complete the in-the-round bind off.