twisted brioche stitch in the round

I wanted to do some brioche stitch as a decorative hatband, so had to figure out how to do it in the round.  I decided to do the twisted brioche stitch found here.  I also did one with the top Tunisian brioche found here, but that was simple.  The twisted brioche is a little more difficult partly because it becomes a repeat of six rows instead of just three.  It is also expressed in a style similar to using a "yarn forward" followed by knitting or a "yarn back" followed by purling when what is actually desired is a simple "yarn over".  It's the third row that is particularly problematic.

Anyway, with my interpretation of the instructions translated to in-the-round, done with Caron Simply Soft on #7 (4.5 mm) needles, this stitch looks like this:

Abriviations:
yos1 = s1yo = slip a stitch while doing a yarn over.  This results in a pair of stitches in the same spot which is common to brioche.  They are usually knit as one on the next row.
k2tog = knit two together
p2tog = purl two together
k = knit
p = purl

Instructions (requires a multiple of 3 stitches):
1) yos1, k2tog (repeat these all the way around)
2) p2tog, s1yo
3) k1, k the yo but leave it on the left needle, k2tog (yo and stitch)
4) p2tog, s1yo
5) yos1, k2tog
6) p2tog, catch the yo with the left needle and p it, p1

carrot edging

I looked around for an edging that could be a carrot, but couldn't find anything like that.  It took a few tries, but I created something I like.  I'll link them together and pick up stitches from the side to start a hat.  Here is that edge of carrots.  It is a mix of flat and in-the-round.  Since I knit back and forth, the instructions are from the right side.

This just happens to be what I used for my project.  Any other project would expect to use about the same as the rest of the project, be that fingering weight or bulky.

Yarn: Any ol' worsted thing, I used Loops & Threads Silky Soft in aran.
Needles: #7 (4.5 mm) circular needle (for magic loop) and one extra needle the same size or smaller

Gauge: not critical, approximately what is says on the yarn
k=knit, p=purl, yo=yarn over, k1b=k1 through the back of the loop, p2tog=purl 2 together, CO=cast off

Starting at the right on 3 stitches:

1) p1, k1, p1

2) start I-cord by slipping the stitches to the other end of the needle and k3

3) k3, yo

4) k3, k1b

5) k4, yo (this is a good time to switch from I-cord technique to a magic loop technique)

6) k4, k1b

7) k5, yo

8) k5, k1b

9) k6, yo

10) k6, k1b

11) k7, yo

12) k7, k1b

13) k8, yo

14) k8, k1b

15) k9, yo

16) k9, k1b

17) k10

18) Place the last 5 stitches on the extra needle, knit the back stitches together with the front stitches, this reverts it to flat knitting

19) p2tog, k1 and cast off the previous stitch, p2 (3 stitches)

20) p2, k1

21) k1, p2

22) p2, k1, k on 3 stitches

23) CO 2 stitches, place the 3rd back on the right needle and k together with the next stitch, p2 (3 stitches)

24) p2, k1

25) k1, p2

26) p2, k1, k on 5 stitches

27) CO 4 stitches, place the 5th back on the right needle and k with the next, p2

28) p2, k1

29) k1, p2

30) p2, k1, k on 3 stitche

31) CO 2 stitches, place the 3rd back on the right needle and k with the next, p2

Repeat as often as required.

To make a fuller carrot top, k on 4 stitches at the end of rows 24 and 28, then CO 3 and k the 4th with the next stitch for rows 25 and 29.  Even fuller, stop binding off before the last and k on a few more stitches to bind off.  To make a fuller carrot, give it a little stuffing just before row 18.

Mighty rabbit ears

Eventually, a hat to attach them to, but first Big Ears!  They're done in the round using a magic loop.  Ears and hat will both come out of the same 6 oz skein.

Yarn: Any ol' worsted thing, I used Loops & Threads Silky Soft in aran.
Needles: #7 (4.5 mm) circular needle (for magic loop) or dpn
Gauge: not critical, approximately what is says on the yarn
k=knit, p=purl, m1L=make one left, m1R=make one right, ssk=slip, slip, knit; k2tog=knit 2 together, w&t=wrap and turn
Note that I do not flip my work over, merely reverse direction, so all instructions are for the right side.

Cast on 4 stitches:
1) k4
2) k1, m1L, m1R, k3
3) k5, m1L, m1R, k1
4) k1, m1L, k2, m1R, k5
5) k7, m1L, p2, m1R, k1
6) k8, p2, k2
7) k1, m1L, k4, m1R, k3, p2, k2
8) k9, m1L, p4, m1R, k2
9,10) k10, p4, k2
11) k1, m1L, k6, m1R, k3, p4, k2
12) k11, m1L, p6, m1R, k1
13-15) k12, p6, k2
16) k1, m1L, k8, m1R, k3, p6, k2
17) k13, m1L, p8, m1R, k1
18-21) k14, p8, k2
22) k1, m1L, k10, m1R, k3, p8, k2
23) k15, m1L, p10, m1R, k1
24-28) k16, p10, k2
29) k1, m1L, k12, m1R, k3, p10, k2
30) k17, m1L, p12, m1R, k1
31-38) k18, p12, k2
39) k1, m1L, k14, m1R, k3, p12, k2
40) k19, m1L, p14, m1R, k1
41-51) k20, p14, k2
52) k1, m1L, k16, m1R, k3, p14, k2
53) k21, m1L, p16, m1R, k1
54-71) k22, p16, k2
72) k17, w&t, k14, w&t, k16, p16, k2
73-74) k22, p16, k2
75) k21, ssk, p14, k2tog, k1
76) k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k3, p14, k2
77) k20, p14, k2
78) k19, ssk, p12, k2tog, k1
79) k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k3, p12, k2
80) k13, w&t, k10, w&t, k15, p12, k2
81) k17, ssk, p10, k2tog, k1
82) k1, ssk, k10, k2tog, k3, p10, k2
83) k16, p10, k2
84) k15, ssk, p8, k2tog, k1
85) k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k3, p8, k2
86) k9, w&t, k6, w&t, k11, p8, k2
Cast off in p.

After doing short rows, always remember to pick up your wrap in the next row.  Once the first is finished, it's time to do it all over again for a second.  For the sake of symmetry, I did the second from left to right (the first was right to left).  The same effect can be achieved by knitting along the back section of the work instead of the front.  Since this is knitting the wrong side, k and p are swapped.

rectangle piece

Squares are alright, but rectangles are more useful pieces for putting together into a whole something. This is a plan for a rectangle in the round on a circular needle.

Use a figure eight cast-on on the cable of the circular needle for enough stitches for the desired length minus the width plus two. Knit the first stitch (2 stitches), increase (yarn over) and continue knitting until the last second (third) to last, increase (yarn over) and knit the last. Increase (yarn over), and repeat for the other side of the figure eight. Knit the next row. Continue knitting with two increases around the corner stitch(es) every other row like in the square.

A towel or place mat would be made by just binding off, or the stitches could be left live to be caught up for some other part of whatever it will become. As stated, there could be something funny going on at one corner. Following the parenthesis instructions might fix it but leaves rounder corners as seen in the square.

In reverse, enough stitches could be cast on for the perimeter of the project and reductions taken as needed at the corners, two every other row. When the center is reached, graft it like the toe of a sock. Grafting leaves the yarn at the middle following the same path as the figure eight cast on.

It would be highly recommended to mark the corners either way. It is easy to misplace a stitch one way or the other while working.