Jellyfish don't belong on your head: a hat

This is a top down pattern that turns quite a few yards of yarn into a very silly hat.  All kinds of patterning could be tried on it.  I kept thinking about trying some intarsia in the round, but managed to do most of that thinking after it was started as just the basic grey.

The hat is constructed of  Lion Brand Fisherman Wool in oatmeal, natural, and maple tweed knitted on a #7 (4.5 mm) needle.  Magic loop knitting with a cable needle allows using a single needle.  On this needle, it is about 20 stitches 28 rows for 4", but the gauge isn't very critical.  A tapestry needle is needed to finish things off.

For the mantle, take the oatmeal, a rather grey color, or something quite bright:
Cast one 5 stitches.
1) kfb (knit in front and back) around: 10 stitches
2) kfb around: 20 stitches
3 and each row not mentioned) k
4) kfb, k1 to the end (10 repeats)
6) kfb, k2
8) kfb, k3
10) kfb, k4
12) kfb, k5
14) kfb, k6
16) kfb, k7
18) kfb, k8
20) kfb, k9
23) kfb, k1026) kfb, k11
30) kfb, k1234) kfb, k13
knit 12 rows
47) kfb, k14
knit 3 rows
51) kfb, k7 to end (20 repeats)
53) kfb, k8
54) yo, k1
Cast off knitting the yarn overs through the back loop.

Hat interior:
Pick up 100 stitches along the inside with a matching color.  A crochet hook can be helpful for this.

k 6 rows, then change colors (I went to the maple tweed) and knit about 3 inches.
Do some p2, k2 ribbing for another 1.5 inches or so and cast off:
k2, slip the stitches back and k2tog, then k1, slip, k2tog around.  Loop the last loop around the first to complete the circle and weave in.

Tentacles/oral arms:
These are worked while flipping the fabric rather than working back and forth.
Make 10 to 20 to distribute around the hat, I used the natural for these:

Tentacle 1: Cast on 36.
1) k6, kbl30 (knit through the back loop)
2) (k1, yo)x6, k2, (yo, k1)x23, k5
3) k52, w&t (wrap and turn: yarn forward, slip the next stitch, yarn back and slip it again, then flip the fabric)
4) (k1, yo)x46, k6
cast off

Tentacle 2: Cast on 36.
1) k6, kbl30
2) (k1, yo)x6, k2, (yo, k1)x23, k5
3) k52, w&t
4) (k1, yo)x12, k2, (yo, k1)x33, k5
5) k72, w&t
6) (k1, yo)x66, k6
cast off

Tentacle 3: Cast on 28.
1)  k6, kbl22
2) (k1, yo)x6, k2, (yo, k1)x15, k5
3) k36, w&t
4) (k1, yo)x12, k2, (yo, k1)x17, k5
5) k40, w&t
6) (k1, yo)x34, k6
cast off

Attach these around the hat at the color change using the tail from the cast on.

Weave in the ends and the hat is ready.

minor octopus hat

I knit a fish hat that I gave to a friend, but she soon lost it to her husband who insists that it is his.  I decided to knit something for her that he can be jealous of because he's only got a fish to go on his head.  I decided to get an octopus for her.  Figuring it was a simple thing, I looked at the patterns and found nothing very good there, so I just started off on my own.  I plan to put some sort of mantle on it, too, but the result pre-mantle seems suitable for your more conservative octopus hat wearer.

 

I used some Lion Brand Fisherman's Wool (oak tweed) on #7 (4.5 mm) cable needle.  The gauge is about 5 stitches and 7 rows per inch each way.

k = knit; p = purl; k2tog = knit two together; ssk = slip two stitches singly and knit them together (slip, slip, knit)

Cast on 88 stitches and join in the round.  Knit 3 rows.  Do k2, p2 ribbing for about an inch, then knit for another 3 inches.  At this point it may be desirable to change color.  Put the last 77 stitches on a stitch holder (such as a smaller cable needle) to start on the octopus legs, starting on the 11 stitches left.

Legs:
1) k 11 stitches, knit on 7 more and join in the round.
2) k
3) k
4) k2, p2, k3, p2, k9
5) same as 4
6) k
7) repeat 3-6 11 times (giving 12 sets of purl bumps)
8) k5, k2tog, k4, ssk, k3, k2tog
9) k2, p2, k2, p2, k7
10) same as 9
11) k
12) k
13) repeat 9-11
14) k2, ssk, k2, k2tog, k3, ssk, k2
15) k3, p2, k7
16) same as 15
17) k
18) k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1
19) k2, p2, k5
20) same as 19
21) k
22) k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1
23) k
24) ssk, k2tog, k2tog
25) draw the yarn through the last 3 loops and weave in the end.

Continue making legs until all the loops are used.  Pick up the 7 knitted on stitches on each leg giving 56 stitches.
1) slip the first stitch to next to the last stitch, k5, pick up the yarn between the legs from the last round of knitting all the way around, give it a twist and put it on the left needle, then knit it together with the next two stitches.  Continue until the row is finished.  (k5, make the stitch, k3tog)
2) k
3) k4, ssk around
4) k
5) slip the first to the last, k3, k2tog
6) k
7) k2, ssk
8) k
9) slip the first stitch, k1, k2tog
10) ssk
Draw the yarn through the last 8 stitches and weave in all the ends.

wide brimmed hat

This hat has a stiff brim supported by wire.  Because of this, it has a very large brim without much yarn used.  Since it is knit, the sunlight is only partly blocked.  It is sized for an extra large head over 24" (but I'll put the modification for a normal 22" head in parenthesis).

This one happens to be knit in Caron Simply Soft in the color limelight on a #8 (5 mm) cable needle.  This gave a gauge of 18 stitches to 4".  It took a bit over 100 yards (less than half the skein).  I also used a second cable with smaller needles in the provisional cast on.  An 16 gauge galvanized wire (about 50") holds up the brim.

k = knit
k2tog = knit two together
yo, s1 = yarn over, slip one
k2tbl = knit two through the back loop

Provisionally cast on 216 (198) stitches.  I used a figure 8 cast on with the cable of the extra cable needle.  Join in a circle being careful not to twist and k 2 rows then knit the next row together with the live loops from the provisional cast on.  This forms the tube in which the wire will sit.
1) k22, k2tog (k20, k2tog) around
2 and each even row) k
3) k21, k2tog (k19, k2tog)
5) k20, k2tog (k18, k2tog)
7) k19, k2tog (k17, k2tog)
9) k18, k2tog (k16, k2tog)
11) k17, k2tog (k15, k2tog)
13) k16, k2tog (k14, k2tog)
15) k15, k2tog (k13, k2tog)
17) k14, k2tog (k12, k2tog)
19) k13, k2tog (k11, k2tog)
21) k12, k2tog (k10, k2tog)
23) k11, k2tog (k9, k2tog)
For the hatband shown, repeat these two rows:
1) yo, s1 around
2) k2tbl around (the yo and slipped stitch together)
Go for about 6 repeats.  Continue knitting until there are 3" or so from the brim (my hat is a little too shallow) then p a row and continue as:
1) k10, k2tog (k8, k2tog)
2 and each even row) k
3) k9, k2tog (go to step 7)
5) k8, k2tog
7) k7, k2tog
9) k6, k2tog
11) k5, k2tog
13) k4, k2tog
15) k3, k2tog
17) k2, k2tog
19) k1, k2tog
21) k2tog
22) pull yarn through the final 8 stitches and weave in the ends.  Thread the wire through the sleeve at the edge and tie the ends to the side of the wire with thread wrapped a few times then tied.

garter brim hat

This is a soft hat with a brim.  Since it is soft, the brim is fairly floppy, but can be pushed out of the eyes and will stay that way.  It can be folded in ways that help it stay up as well.  It is sized for a normal 22" head.

This one happens to be knit in Caron Simply Soft in the color limelight on a #7 (4.5 mm) cable needle.  This gave a gauge of 12 stitches to 2.5".  It took about 200 yards (more than half the skein).

k = knit
p = purl
kfb = knit front and back (an increase)

Cast on 8 stitches and join in the round or start with your favorite 8 stitch circular start.
1) kfb around
2 and even rounds) k
3) kfb, k1 around
5) kfb, k2 around
7) kfb, k3 around
9) kfb, k4 around
11) kfb, k5 around
13) kfb, k6 around
15) kfb, k7 around
17) kfb, k8 around
19) kfb, k9 around
21) kfb, k10 around
23) kfb, k11 around
25) k around for 2 to 2.5 inches
To have the hatband as shown, knit in pattern found here for another 1.5 to 2 inches ending on row 3.  Otherwise knit plain or use another desirable pattern.  There should be 4 to 5 inches between the increases and brim at the end.
For the brim:
1) kfb around
2 and even rounds) p
3 and odd rounds) k
Continue until the brim is wide enough, about 9 sets.  Cast off on a purl row.

Rabbit hat

Why is it that babies get all the fun hats?  Surely adults need to have fun too.  Is it because they worry about what others will think of them if they have wild things?  I couldn't find a rabbit themed hat, so I had to figure it out myself.  Now I've got a hat suitable for people nick-named "Rabbit" and drivers of Volkswagen Golfs, but probably not Playboy bunnies.

 

Yarn: Any ol' worsted thing, I used Loops & Threads Silky Soft in aran.  It was much less than one 6 oz skein.
Needles: #7 (4.5 mm) circular needle (for magic loop) and one extra needle the same size or smaller

Gauge: not critical, approximately what is says on the yarn (18 per 4")
k=knit, k2tog=knit two together, k3tog=knit three together: slip 1 stitch, k2tog, then pass the slipped stitch over, ssk=slip two stitches and knit them together, yo=yarn over

First, knit a couple ears.  The big floppy rabbit ears in a size suitable for an adult hat are already blogged.  Then knit your favorite hat and attach the ears.  I wanted something a little bit fancy and fit with the rabbit theme and wasn't looking for something all that warm, so made a carrot edging and used a simple lace to decorate the main portion of the hat.

Knit 4 carrots for the edging.  The carrot edging is also previously blogged.  The really brave will do them in orange and green.  Connect them into a loop without twisting and pick up 90 stitches in knit along the flat edge and start knitting:
k 4 rows
lace:
1) *yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1*
2) k
3) *k1, yo, k3tog, yo, k2*
4) k
Repeat these rows a total of 4 times
k 8 rows, then decrease with *k8, k2tog*
k 4 rows and decrease with k2, k2tog, *k7, k2tog*, k5
k 2 rows and then k3, k2tog, *k6, k2tog*, k3
k 1 row then *k5, k2tog*
k 1 row then k1, k2tog, *k4, k2tog*, k3
k 1 row then *k3, k2tog*
k 1 row then *k2tog, k2*
k 1 row then *k2tog, k1*
*k2tog* and pull the end of the yarn through the last 9 stitches.

This makes a fairly unpatterned top for the hat.  For locating ears, I put mine toward the back a little bit.  Here's a photo for help in locating the ears and to see how the top comes out:

I picked up the stitches along the carrots so that they hand down from the hat.  They could be picked up so that they sort of fold over the lower section of the hat in which case some of the plain rows after the lace should be moved to before the lace so that the carrots stop before the lace starts.  There's more photos of the hat on my Ravelry project page.

summer fling

This is a floppy, wide brimmed hat with a lacy, airy crown perfect for a summer day.



Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream, 2 skeins. This is daisy ombres.
Needles: #7 (4.5 mm) and #6 (4 mm) circular needle or dpn
Gauge: not critical, approximately 20 stitches and 26 rows for 4"x4" (10x10 cm)
k=knit, p=purl, yo=yarn over, ssk=slip, slip, knit, kbf=knit back and front, like knit front and back (kfb), but in the opposite order, it helps to pull the stitch off and put back on to keep them in the correct order along the yarn, bo=bind off.

CO 8 into circle in favorite way. I generally just cast on 9 with a long tail, slip the first stitch and later knit it with the last one.
1 and all odd) k around
2) yo, k1 around
4) yo, k2 around
6) yo, k3 around
8) yo, k4 around
10) yo, k5 around
12) yo, ssk, yo, k4 around
14) (yo, ssk)x2, yo, k3 around
16) (yo, ssk)x3, yo, k2 around
18) (yo, ssk)x4, yo, k1 around
20 and even for 3 inches or so) yo, ssk around
22,24,26,28) p around
30) switch needles down one size: kbf, k4 around
32) kbf, k5 around
34) kbf, k6 around
36) kbf, k7 around
38) kbf, k8 around
40) kbf, k9 around
42) kbf, k10 around
44) kbf, k11 around
46) kbf, k12 around
48) kbf, k13 around
50) kbf, k14 around
51) p around
52) kbf, k15 around
53) k around
54) bo 1 (in k), knit on 2, *bo 4, k on 2* around, bo 3 and wrap last stitch around first bo (picot bind off)

This made a bit fuller brim than really needed. I tried going back to 8 increases around while making the hat, but it does not increase quite fast enough on the smaller needles. After 4 or 5 rows of increasing 16 times, it may be better to intersperse some 8 increase rows as so:
40) kbf, k20 around
42) kbf, k21 around
44) kbf, k11 around
46) kbf, k24 around
48) kbf, k25 around
50) kbf, k13 around
51) p around
52) kbf, 28 around
Then finish as above.

Starch can be added to stiffen the brim. Bug buttons were knitted into the fabric as I went for decoration. For these, it's best to decide where they will go before starting.

slouchy summer cap

Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream, 2 skeins. Natural twists has been used here.
Needles: #7 (4.5 mm) circular needle or dpn
Gauge: not critical, approximately 20 stitches and 26 rows for 4"x4" (10x10 cm)
k=knit, p=purl, yo=yarn over, ssk=slip, slip, knit, k2tog=knit two together.

Cast on 8 and join in a circle. (For best results, cast on 8 plus the first loop, slip the loop and knit it with the last stitch such that the stitch is on top.)
1 and all odd rows: k
2: (yo, k1)x8 -- 16 stitches
4: (yo, k2)x8 -- 24 stitches
6: (yo, k3)x8 -- 32 stitches
8: (yo, k4)x8 -- 40 stitches
10: (yo, k5)x8 -- 48 stitches
12: (yo, k6)x8 -- 56 stitches
14: (yo, ssk, yo, k5)x8 -- 64 stitches
16: ((yo, ssk)x2, yo, k4)x8 -- 72 stitches
18: ((yo, ssk)x3, yo, k3)x8 -- 80 stitches
20: ((yo, ssk)x4, yo, k2)x8 -- 88 stitches
22: ((yo, ssk)x4, yo, k2tog, k1)x8 -- 88 stitches
24: ((yo, ssk)x5, yo, k1)x8 -- 96 stitches
26: ((yo, ssk)x5, yo, k2tog)x8 -- 96 stitches
28: ((yo, ssk)x6)x8 -- 96 stitches
Keep up row 28 for each even row for about 6 inches (22 pattern rows) or more. Up to row 28 used about 1/2 skein, so would be possible to do a short one with 1 skein, but wouldn’t be very slouchy at all.
30,32: yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, (yo, ssk)x4 -- 96 stitches
34: yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, k2tog, (yo, ssk)x3 -- 88 stitches
36: yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, k1, (yo, ssk)x3 -- 88 stitches
38,40,42: p
44: cast off in p. Pull the last loop around the first loop to make the bind off continuous.
Sew on decorations if desired.

For a tighter brim, do one more decrease before the garter rows:
38: yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, k1, k2tog, (yo, ssk)x2 -- 80 stitches
40: yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, k2, (yo, ssk)x2 -- 80 stitches
42,44,46: p
48: cast off in p. Be sure not to cast off too tightly.

Four Cornered Round Hat: Graduation edition

Graduation is next week, at least in my neck of the woods!

If one starts with the idea of the Four Cornered Round Hat of the previous post, it wouldn't be too hard to knit up a mortarboard style hat for graduation. Well, if you're in a school with this particular traditional, anyway. The hard part would be finding the yarn in the right color. Somehow I've not seen the Sugar'n Cream in black although it is available.

Here is a plan for such a hat which will utilize the reverse direction plan:

This would probably take 3-4 skeins of yarn rather than just 2.

Cast on 100 stitches for a 22" head. Join taking care not to twist the cast-on. Knit a few rows straight for 1-1.5" then start decreasing to fit the crown. Place markers every 25 stitches and decrease at the markers every other row until only 14 are left on each side.

It is likely one will need to add a few short rows to the corners to help the circle to square transition. Try: K2, switch direction, S1, K3, switch direction, S1, K to the next marker for each corner. Rather hard to say. Increase on the next row and continue increasing following the instructions for the hat top.

The mortarboard portion needs to go out to about 12". For the gauge, this is when each side reaches 61 stitches but measure to be sure. Purl a row then knit 3 rows and purl another.

The top will eventually need something to hold it stiff. Now is the easiest time to put it in, but that might not fit on the needles still. A bit of coat hanger or some cardboard would be the obvious cheap stiffeners. A lot of starch at the end might do it too. Decrease as instructed for the bottom of the hat but continue until there are 3 stitches on each side. Decrease once more on each side. If needed to fill the middle, knit one more row. Pull the yarn through the live loops at the end.

Four Cornered Round Hat: reverse direction

As I said in the previous post, I realized I knitted the hat in the reverse of the easiest direction. Well, I suspect I did. Here is the plan to reverse the pattern:

Start off by casting on 100 stitches (change in multiples of 8 if needed) of CA. Join the round and knit rows until there is enough solid for the edge. Knit 1/2 row more and start the swirl pattern by starting CC. Continue in the swirl until there are enough straight stitches. Place markers every 25 stitches to mark the sides. When ready, start increasing as instructed for the top of the hat until there are 45 stitches to a side. Purl a row, then knit a few rows and purl another row. Knit the top decreasing as instructed for the bottom. When there are 12 stitches, only decrease once per side. Knit another row if needed to fill in the center and pull the yarn through the live stitches to finish. Weave in the ends.

Knitting into the bottom YO without a twist might not look too bad.

Four Cornered Round Hat

This silly beret style hat is inspired by the knitting technique used for the dizzy dishcloth to knit a square in the round. The colors spiral outward from the center, but this time the yarn overs are knit twisted so there are no holes and it is done in stockinette instead of garter. Twisting the stitch does tighten up the increase rows, so one less row in the middle is needed. The square created this way was not quite as flat, but still fairly flat. When I was searching for a bind off technique I liked, it occurred to me that it would have been easier to knit from the brim instead of the top.

Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream. About 1 skein each of sage green (solids) and landscape (stripes) colorways or pick your own colors.
Needles: #6 (4mm) 29" circular needle.
Also needs a tapestry needle at the very end.

Gauge: 20 stitches per 4", but not particularly important.

Abbreviations: K = knit, P = purl, YO = yarn over, K2tg = knit 2 together, SSK = slip 2 (as if to purl), pass them back and knit them together. CA = solid color, CC = contrasting (stripes) color, PM = place marker. The YO are always knitted with a twist: Krt = knit with a right twist, Klt = knit with a left twist.

Pattern:
This is done generally as a magic loop on the circular needle. Cast on 4 stitches of CA then 4 more of CC. This cast on will be unraveled at the end. With CC on the cable, K2 of CC into CA, PM, K2, PM. Move the CC cast on to the needle and the stitches just done to the cable, K2 of CA into CC taking care not to leave a twist. PM, K2. The markers now mark the corners of the hat and a "side" is the space between markers.


Row 2: With CA, K1, YO, K1. Slip the markers as you come to them. K1, YO, K1. With CC, K1, YO, K1, K1, YO, K1.

Row 3: With CC, K1, Krt, K1, K1, Krt, K1 . With CA, K1, Krt, K1, K1, Krt, K1. The twist direction is not actually important on this row. For the right twist, you just knit into the back of the YO.

Row 4 and all even rows on the top of the hat: With CA, K1, YO, K until 1 stitch is left before the marker, YO, K1. Repeat for a second side. With CC, repeat for the last 2 sides.

Row 5 and all odd rows on the top of the hat: With CC, K1, Krt, K until 2 stitches are left before the marker, Klt, K1. Repeat for a second side. With CA, repeat for the last 2 sides.

Continue until finishing the odd row with 45 stitches. This finishes the top of the hat which should be about 9"x9".

Side row 1: P 2 sides with CA. P 2 sides with CC. Continue to carry the markers along.

Row 2-7: K 2 sides with the color on hand. Switch colors at the halfway point and K 2 more sides.

Row 8: P 2 sides with CC. P 2 sides with CA. This finishes the side.

Bottom row 1 and all odd rows while decreasing: With CA K1, K2tog, K until 2 stitches are left before the marker, SSK, K1. Repeat for a 2nd side. Repeat with CC for 2 more sides.

Row 2 and all even rows: With CC, K 2 sides. With CA K the 2 remaining sides.

Decrease until there are 25 stitches remaining on each side to fit a head about 22". K an additional 8 rows continuing to change colors at the middle point. Cut CC and K 8 more rows in CA.

Use a stretchy bind off. The second one on this page fits the character of the hat well but needs to be modified for the round. K1, then pass it back to the left needle. K1 into the same stitch. Now *K1, pass 2 stitches back, K2tog*. Repeat between the asterics until all the stitches are used. Cut the yarn and pull the last stitch through. Thread it around the 2nd stitch knitted in the bind off and back through where it had been. This makes the bind off a continuous loop.

At the top, undo the cast on and one row to leave 4 live loops of each color. Thread the ends through these loops and pull it somewhat tight. Weave in all the ends.


Tip: Eventually the work is large enough to knit in the round normally, but do not stop the magic loop working before its time. If the work is stretched on the needle when knitting in the round, it's not really big enough for that yet.