glovtens

Another "spork" for the world of hand warming clothing items. Gloves provide articulation of the fingers to allow us to actually do stuff whole the hands are kept toasty, but mittens are generally warmer when all other things are equal. Capturing a little more articulation than the previous pair, this pair isolates the upper half of two fingers for the operation of cameras or whatever is needed while leaving the rest of the fingers to have friendly finger warmth.

I took quite a lot of measurements to get the size to fit my hand. I am sure there are some general rules that would allow one to do this with a couple, but I don't know them.

A start of the measurements and the basic idea.

Executed exactly as planned.

I will again attempt to communicate how to make these in any size with any gauge, but will also write down exactly what I did in bold for my hand and gauge. I used Patons Classic Wool, a worsted weight yarn that is 100% wool. I knitted on US #6 (4mm) needles. In stockinette, my gauge is 22 stitches and 29 rows for 4 inches square. The completed project fits a hand 8" around and 7" long. It used 2/3 of the skein for two glovtens.

Measure length around hand. (For me, 8 inches.) Use the gauge to calculate how many stitches for this length and cast on the nearest amount divisible by 4. (8"/4"*stitches = 44 stitches. This is divisible by 4 already.) Cast on this number of stitches and continue on k2, p2 ribbing for 2", then knit a row.
Cast on 44 stitches;(k2, p2)x11 for 15 rows;
k44;

Measure from the base of the hand where the thumb splits (a in the illustration above) and calculate a number of rows from this. (2.25"/4"*rows = 16.3 rows, I used 17.)
Measure around thumb and calculate the nearest even number of stitches. (2.5" becomes 14 stitches.)
Knit the number of rows calculated while evenly adding the 4 less than stitches calculated (10 stitches) in pairs next to the original 2nd and 2nd to last stitch. Make the stitch by pulling up the yarn below between the stitches and knitting it twisted.
k1, m1, k42, m1, k1;
k46 for 2 rows;
k2, m1, k42, m1, k2;
k48 for 3 rows;
k3, m1, k42, m1, k3;
k50 for 2 rows;
k4, m1, k42, m1, k4;
k52 for 3 rows;
k5, m1, k42, m1, k5;
k54 for 2 rows;

To start the thumb, knit across 1 less than the number of pairs added and make a stitch, then put all but an equal number of stitches on a holder and make a stitch on the opposite side, then knit to the end.
k6, m1, put 42 stitches on a holder, m1, k6;

Measure the shortest thumb length and knit one row less than this length. (2" is 15 rows.) Close the thumb using repeats of *k2tog, k1* or *k1, k2tog*, whichever is required to not end with a k2tog on a single stitch. Pull the yarn through the final stitches a couple times and weave in.
k14 for 14 rows;
(k2tog, k1)x5, k2tog;
pull yarn through remaining stitches;

Measure from the base of hand to first joint on first finger (b) and subtract the length already done (a) to find a number of rows. (4.875”-2.25” = 2.625” left. 19 rows.) Knit into the same loop as the first made stitch and around the held stitches, then into the same loop as the second made stitch. Continue around for the rest of the calculated rows.
k the same loop as the 1st made stitch, k42, k the same loop as the 2nd made stitch;
k44 for 18 rows;

Measure around finger and calculate the number of stitches. This should not be less than the cast on stitches plus 12 all divided by 4. (2.5” is 14 stitches. (44+12)/4=14 also.) Knit one less than half these stitches, make one, place the rest to an equal number of stitches on a holder, make another across from the first and knit to the end to split off the first finger.
k6, m1, put 32 on a holder, m1, k6;

Measure from the joint to the end and calculate the number of rows. (1.875” is 14 rows.) Knit one less than this number of rows and then finish the same way as the thumb.
k14 for 13 rows;
(k2tog, k1)x5, k2tog;
draw yarn through remaining stitches a couple rounds and weave in the end;

Measure to the first joint of the second finger (c) and subtract what has already been done (b) to calculate a number of rows. (5.2”-4.875” is 2.35 rows. 2 or 3, go with 2) Knit on similar to before including the made stitches and knit these rows.
k into the same loop as the 1st made stitch, k32, and k into the same loop as the 2nd made stitch;
k34;

Measure around the second finger for a number of stitches. This should not be less than for the previous finger. (2.5” is 14 stitches. Same as previous.) Knit 1 less than half these, make one, put the rest on a holder leaving an equal number of stitches on the far side, make another across from the first, and knit to the end.
k6, m1, place 22 on a holder, m1, k6;

Measure length from the joint to the end for a number of rows. (2” is 14.5 rows. Use 15.) Knit 1 less than these rows and finish like on the thumb.

k14 for 14 rows;(k2tog, k1)x5, k2tog;
pull yarn through remaining stitches and weave in;

Measure 3rd finger from base of the hand and subtract what has already been done for a number of rows. (6.5”-5.2” is 9.425 rows.)
Measure pinky from base of the hand and subtract what has already been done for a number of rows. (5.5”-5.2” is 2.175 rows.) K into the made stitches and the remaining stitches as before. Finish the number or rows to cover the 4th finger. Start decreasing near the center or each round to finish decreasing when long enough for the 3rd finger. (Begin decreases after 2 rows, finish in 9.)

k into the same loop as the 1st made stitch, k22, then into the same loop as the 2nd made stitch;
k24;
k9, k2tog, k2, ssk, k9;
k22;
k8, k2tog, k2, ssk, k8; (20 stitches)
k7, k2tog, k2, ssk, k7; (18 stitches)
k6, k2tog, k2, ssk, k6; (16 stitches)
k5, k2tog, k2, ssk, k5; (14 stitches)
k4, k2tog, k2, ssk, k4; (12 stitches)
(k2tog, k1)x4;
draw the yarn through the last stitches;

Once the first is complete, repeat for the second. While hands tend to have differences between left and right, you will probably want to complete these in the same way for the second one to be symmetrical, so it is good practice to write down your steps if you are not following the same exact steps I used.

Variations:

Well, one variation. Fingerless: Stop 4 rows short of the end on the thumb and/or fingers, then bind off in purl. Wrap the last stitch around the first to complete the in-the-round bind off.

near mits: somewhat fingerless mittens

These come from wondering what will really keep my hands warm while also allowing operation of a mildly fancy camera while hiking. For warmest hands, one wants thick mittens. For doing things without taking off the cold protection, one wants thin gloves. These are incompatible. Most times, only the thumb and a finger are really needed. So here come the near mits.

I'm doing this pattern in two ways: conceptual and concrete. The conceptual should be sufficient to fit them to any hand using any yarn or needle, but requires a bit extra to follow. The concrete is what exactly I did to make this work for my hands on the needles I chose with the yarn I chose. Since hands, needles, yarn, and tightness of technique all vary quite a bit, this is unlikely to work for too many variations. But I do have some rather average hands.

Conceptual pattern:

Wrist: First, you will need to have some idea of your gauge. Then decide how far up the arm they should go and measure the circumference there and of the hand at the palm (no thumb). Cast on enough stitches for the arm measurement and join in the round. Knit many rows, decreasing evenly to the correct number of stitches for the hand measurement over the desired length. Usually this knitting will start with some ribbing of some sort.

 Hand start: Measure around the thumb to determine how many stitches will be needed to go around it (a) and measure from the base of the hand to where the thumb slits off to determine how many rows are needed (b). Add a-4 stitches in pairs near the first and last stitch evenly over b rows.

Thumb: Knit (a/2)-1 stitches, make one next to the last stitch. Across from this, make another stitch and knit the (a/2)-1 stitches back to the start. Place the rest of the stitches on a holder. This is the thumb. Continue knitting around, the last few rows in a k1, p1 pattern, until almost as long as the thumb, then cast off loosely (or use a stretchy bind off) in pattern. Wrap the last stitch around the first stitch to make a complete circle of bind-off. (For sufficiently small gauge, more stitches may be required for the crossing in which case they can be chained on. Like these two made stitches, the new loops will be knitted in again when starting the rest of the hand and a similar procedure will be needed when slitting off the finger and starting the closed off fingers.)

Finger: Knit into the same loop as the first made stitch, then around the held stitches and into the same loop as the last made stitch. Knit rows until long enough to cover the first joint. Measure around the finger to determine how many stitches are needed to go around it (c). Knit (c/2)-1 stitches, make one, go to the other side, make another and knit (c/2)-1 stitches back to the start. Place the rest of the stitches on a holder. Knit around, the last few rows in k1, p1 pattern, until almost as long as the finger and bind off like the thumb.

Capped fingers: Knit into the same loop as the first made stitch for the finger, then around the held stitches and into the same loop as the last made stitch. Knit around, decreasing when appropriate, to leave just enough space for the other fingers. Graft the end (kitchener) to finish. Weave in the ends.

Concrete pattern:

Choose either a long wrist or a short wrist, then continue on to the hand portion.

This was done with Stitch Nation Full o' Sheep on #8 (5 mm) cable needle generating an approximate gauge of 9 stitches and 12 rows per 2". Uses one ball. Fits hand approximately 8" around and 7" long from wrist to longest finger tip.

k = knit
p = purl
m = make: pull up the yarn between the last worked stitch and the next stitch and knit into this with a twist.
k2tog = knit two together
ssk = slip a stitch, slip another, then knit them together.

Long wrist:

Cast on 40. Place marker and join in round.
k1, p1 for 4 rows;
k 4 rows;
k 3, k2tog, k to end;
k 7 rows;
k 22, k2tog, k to end;
k 7 rows;
k 14, k2tog, k to end;
k 7 rows;
k 32, k2tog, k 3;
k 1 row;
k2, p2 for 8 rows;
k 1 row;

Short wrist: 

Cast on 36. Place marker and join in the round.

k2, p2; for 14 rows;
k 1 row;

hand:

k1, m1, k 34, m1, k1;
k 2 row;
k2, m1, k 34, m1, k2;
k 2 rows;
k3, m1, k 34, m1, k3;
k 2 rows;
k4, m1, k 34, m1, k4;
k 2 rows;
k5, m1, k 34, m1, k5;
k 1 row;
k6, m1, place 34 on a holder, m1, k6;
k 6 rows;
k1, p1 for 4 rows;
Cast off loosely to finish thumb. Loop the last stitch around the first cast off stitch to finish in the round. (This will require a needle.)

k into the same loop as the first made stitch, k the held stitches, k into the same loop as the last made stitch;
k 18 rows;
k6, m1, hold 24, m1, k6;
k 1 row;
k1, p1 for 4 rows;
cast off loosely.

k into the same loop as the first made stitch, k the held stitches, k the same loop as the last made stitch;
k 1 row;
k10, k2tog, k2, ssk, k10;
k 1 row;
k9, k2tog, k2, ssk, k9;
k8, k2tog, k2, ssk, k8;
k7, k2tog, k2, ssk, k7;
(k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1) x2;
Graft the end. (Kitchener stitch.)

To close the bits:

Since one may not want open fingers on both hands, it is useful to be able to make a full thumb and/or full fingers.

For the thumb:

Stop before the rows of k1, p1 and:
k 6 rows (12 total);
(k2tog, k1)x4, k2tog;
draw cord through the stitches;

For the fingers without splitting one off:

After knitting 18 rows
k 1 row;
k15, k2tog, k2, ssk, k15;
k 1 row;
k14, k2tog, k2, ssk, k14;
k13, k2tog, k2, ssk, k13;
(k1, ssk, k9, k2tog, k1)x2;
(k1, ssk, k7, k2tog, k1)x2;
Graft the end. (Kitchener stitch.)

Jellyfish don't belong on your head: a hat

This is a top down pattern that turns quite a few yards of yarn into a very silly hat.  All kinds of patterning could be tried on it.  I kept thinking about trying some intarsia in the round, but managed to do most of that thinking after it was started as just the basic grey.

The hat is constructed of  Lion Brand Fisherman Wool in oatmeal, natural, and maple tweed knitted on a #7 (4.5 mm) needle.  Magic loop knitting with a cable needle allows using a single needle.  On this needle, it is about 20 stitches 28 rows for 4", but the gauge isn't very critical.  A tapestry needle is needed to finish things off.

For the mantle, take the oatmeal, a rather grey color, or something quite bright:
Cast one 5 stitches.
1) kfb (knit in front and back) around: 10 stitches
2) kfb around: 20 stitches
3 and each row not mentioned) k
4) kfb, k1 to the end (10 repeats)
6) kfb, k2
8) kfb, k3
10) kfb, k4
12) kfb, k5
14) kfb, k6
16) kfb, k7
18) kfb, k8
20) kfb, k9
23) kfb, k1026) kfb, k11
30) kfb, k1234) kfb, k13
knit 12 rows
47) kfb, k14
knit 3 rows
51) kfb, k7 to end (20 repeats)
53) kfb, k8
54) yo, k1
Cast off knitting the yarn overs through the back loop.

Hat interior:
Pick up 100 stitches along the inside with a matching color.  A crochet hook can be helpful for this.

k 6 rows, then change colors (I went to the maple tweed) and knit about 3 inches.
Do some p2, k2 ribbing for another 1.5 inches or so and cast off:
k2, slip the stitches back and k2tog, then k1, slip, k2tog around.  Loop the last loop around the first to complete the circle and weave in.

Tentacles/oral arms:
These are worked while flipping the fabric rather than working back and forth.
Make 10 to 20 to distribute around the hat, I used the natural for these:

Tentacle 1: Cast on 36.
1) k6, kbl30 (knit through the back loop)
2) (k1, yo)x6, k2, (yo, k1)x23, k5
3) k52, w&t (wrap and turn: yarn forward, slip the next stitch, yarn back and slip it again, then flip the fabric)
4) (k1, yo)x46, k6
cast off

Tentacle 2: Cast on 36.
1) k6, kbl30
2) (k1, yo)x6, k2, (yo, k1)x23, k5
3) k52, w&t
4) (k1, yo)x12, k2, (yo, k1)x33, k5
5) k72, w&t
6) (k1, yo)x66, k6
cast off

Tentacle 3: Cast on 28.
1)  k6, kbl22
2) (k1, yo)x6, k2, (yo, k1)x15, k5
3) k36, w&t
4) (k1, yo)x12, k2, (yo, k1)x17, k5
5) k40, w&t
6) (k1, yo)x34, k6
cast off

Attach these around the hat at the color change using the tail from the cast on.

Weave in the ends and the hat is ready.

minor octopus hat

I knit a fish hat that I gave to a friend, but she soon lost it to her husband who insists that it is his.  I decided to knit something for her that he can be jealous of because he's only got a fish to go on his head.  I decided to get an octopus for her.  Figuring it was a simple thing, I looked at the patterns and found nothing very good there, so I just started off on my own.  I plan to put some sort of mantle on it, too, but the result pre-mantle seems suitable for your more conservative octopus hat wearer.

 

I used some Lion Brand Fisherman's Wool (oak tweed) on #7 (4.5 mm) cable needle.  The gauge is about 5 stitches and 7 rows per inch each way.

k = knit; p = purl; k2tog = knit two together; ssk = slip two stitches singly and knit them together (slip, slip, knit)

Cast on 88 stitches and join in the round.  Knit 3 rows.  Do k2, p2 ribbing for about an inch, then knit for another 3 inches.  At this point it may be desirable to change color.  Put the last 77 stitches on a stitch holder (such as a smaller cable needle) to start on the octopus legs, starting on the 11 stitches left.

Legs:
1) k 11 stitches, knit on 7 more and join in the round.
2) k
3) k
4) k2, p2, k3, p2, k9
5) same as 4
6) k
7) repeat 3-6 11 times (giving 12 sets of purl bumps)
8) k5, k2tog, k4, ssk, k3, k2tog
9) k2, p2, k2, p2, k7
10) same as 9
11) k
12) k
13) repeat 9-11
14) k2, ssk, k2, k2tog, k3, ssk, k2
15) k3, p2, k7
16) same as 15
17) k
18) k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1
19) k2, p2, k5
20) same as 19
21) k
22) k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1
23) k
24) ssk, k2tog, k2tog
25) draw the yarn through the last 3 loops and weave in the end.

Continue making legs until all the loops are used.  Pick up the 7 knitted on stitches on each leg giving 56 stitches.
1) slip the first stitch to next to the last stitch, k5, pick up the yarn between the legs from the last round of knitting all the way around, give it a twist and put it on the left needle, then knit it together with the next two stitches.  Continue until the row is finished.  (k5, make the stitch, k3tog)
2) k
3) k4, ssk around
4) k
5) slip the first to the last, k3, k2tog
6) k
7) k2, ssk
8) k
9) slip the first stitch, k1, k2tog
10) ssk
Draw the yarn through the last 8 stitches and weave in all the ends.

partial octal -- 3/4 shawl with shaping

This is a shawl with a little bit of shaping for the shoulders that makes a 3/4 circle.  I made a start at it, but am realizing that I cannot finish it with the meager amount of bulky yarn I have.  I draped what I did knit of it over my shoulders, and was surprised how nice it sits there, so decided to post the pattern.  One day I'll have the 6-8 balls this will take, but currently I'm thinking of what to do with what I have instead.

Using Wool-Ease Thick & Quick or some other super bulky yarn on #13 (9 mm) cable needle giving a gauge of 9 stitches and 12 rows to 4" (10 mm).  Requires doing short rows.  Wraps should be picked up, but I will not be noting where they are.  I changed color at row 20, but that could happen before or after or not at all as desired.  I knit only to row 24.

k = knit; p = purl; w&t = wrap and turn; m1 = make one: do a yo, in the next row knit this stitch twisted, I usually k through the back of the loop, but at the second yo by the arms I twist it the other direction.

1) Cast on 104 stitches and k a row
2) k45, m1, k2, m1, k5, m1, k5, m1, k2, m1, k45
3) k to end
4) k44, m1, k4, m1, k7, m1, k6, m1, k4, m1, k44
5 and all odd to 11) k2, p until 2 are left, k2
6) k43, m1, k6, m1, k8, m1, k8, m1, k6, m1, k43
8) k42, m1, k8, m1, k9, m1, k10, m1, k8, m1, k42
10) k41, m1, k10, m1, k11, m1, k11, m1, k10, m1, k41
12) k40, m1, k12, m1, k13, m1, k12, m1, k12, m1, k40
13) k2, p50, w&t; k10, w&t; p50, w&t; k10, w&t; p50, k2
14) k39, m1, k14, m1, k14, m1, k14, m1, k14, m1, k39
15) k2, p50, w&t; k10, w&t; p55, w&t; k10, w&t; p48, w&t (4 left at the end)
16) k34, m1, k16, m1, k15, m1, k16, m1, k16, m1, k34, w&t
17) p until 8 are left, w&t
18) k29, m1, k18, m1, k17, m1, k17, m1, k18, m1, k29, w&t
19) p until 12 are left, w&t
20) k24, m1, k20, m1, k19, m1, k18, m1, k20, m1, k24, w&t
21) p until 16 are left, w&t
22) k19, m1, k22, m1, k20, m1, k20, m1, k22, m1, k19, w&t
23) p until 20 are left, w&t
24) k14, m1, k24, m1, k21, m1, k22, m1, k24, m1, k14, w&t
25) p until 24 are left, w&t
26) k9, m1, k26, m1, k23, m1, k23, m1, k26, m1, k9, w&t
27) p until 20 are left, w&t
28) k4, m1, k28, m1, k25, m1, k24, m1, k25, m1, k4, w&t
29) p until 2 are left, picking up the wraps, k2
30) k31, m1, k30, m1, k26, m1, k26, m1, k30, m1, k31
31 and all odd) again like 5
32) k30, m1, k32, m1, k27, m1, k28, m1, k32, m1, k30
and continue on in this pattern of 6 knitted sections where the 1st and 6th are always less by 1 stitch, the 2nd and 5th are more by 2 stitches, and the 3rd and 4th increase by 3 shared between the two.  The stitch that grows by 2 alternates every 2nd increase.  End the increases with the row starting k2, m1.  If more length is desired, add a few rows of k and finally end with 4 garter rows and bind off not too tightly.

wide brimmed hat

This hat has a stiff brim supported by wire.  Because of this, it has a very large brim without much yarn used.  Since it is knit, the sunlight is only partly blocked.  It is sized for an extra large head over 24" (but I'll put the modification for a normal 22" head in parenthesis).

This one happens to be knit in Caron Simply Soft in the color limelight on a #8 (5 mm) cable needle.  This gave a gauge of 18 stitches to 4".  It took a bit over 100 yards (less than half the skein).  I also used a second cable with smaller needles in the provisional cast on.  An 16 gauge galvanized wire (about 50") holds up the brim.

k = knit
k2tog = knit two together
yo, s1 = yarn over, slip one
k2tbl = knit two through the back loop

Provisionally cast on 216 (198) stitches.  I used a figure 8 cast on with the cable of the extra cable needle.  Join in a circle being careful not to twist and k 2 rows then knit the next row together with the live loops from the provisional cast on.  This forms the tube in which the wire will sit.
1) k22, k2tog (k20, k2tog) around
2 and each even row) k
3) k21, k2tog (k19, k2tog)
5) k20, k2tog (k18, k2tog)
7) k19, k2tog (k17, k2tog)
9) k18, k2tog (k16, k2tog)
11) k17, k2tog (k15, k2tog)
13) k16, k2tog (k14, k2tog)
15) k15, k2tog (k13, k2tog)
17) k14, k2tog (k12, k2tog)
19) k13, k2tog (k11, k2tog)
21) k12, k2tog (k10, k2tog)
23) k11, k2tog (k9, k2tog)
For the hatband shown, repeat these two rows:
1) yo, s1 around
2) k2tbl around (the yo and slipped stitch together)
Go for about 6 repeats.  Continue knitting until there are 3" or so from the brim (my hat is a little too shallow) then p a row and continue as:
1) k10, k2tog (k8, k2tog)
2 and each even row) k
3) k9, k2tog (go to step 7)
5) k8, k2tog
7) k7, k2tog
9) k6, k2tog
11) k5, k2tog
13) k4, k2tog
15) k3, k2tog
17) k2, k2tog
19) k1, k2tog
21) k2tog
22) pull yarn through the final 8 stitches and weave in the ends.  Thread the wire through the sleeve at the edge and tie the ends to the side of the wire with thread wrapped a few times then tied.

garter brim hat

This is a soft hat with a brim.  Since it is soft, the brim is fairly floppy, but can be pushed out of the eyes and will stay that way.  It can be folded in ways that help it stay up as well.  It is sized for a normal 22" head.

This one happens to be knit in Caron Simply Soft in the color limelight on a #7 (4.5 mm) cable needle.  This gave a gauge of 12 stitches to 2.5".  It took about 200 yards (more than half the skein).

k = knit
p = purl
kfb = knit front and back (an increase)

Cast on 8 stitches and join in the round or start with your favorite 8 stitch circular start.
1) kfb around
2 and even rounds) k
3) kfb, k1 around
5) kfb, k2 around
7) kfb, k3 around
9) kfb, k4 around
11) kfb, k5 around
13) kfb, k6 around
15) kfb, k7 around
17) kfb, k8 around
19) kfb, k9 around
21) kfb, k10 around
23) kfb, k11 around
25) k around for 2 to 2.5 inches
To have the hatband as shown, knit in pattern found here for another 1.5 to 2 inches ending on row 3.  Otherwise knit plain or use another desirable pattern.  There should be 4 to 5 inches between the increases and brim at the end.
For the brim:
1) kfb around
2 and even rounds) p
3 and odd rounds) k
Continue until the brim is wide enough, about 9 sets.  Cast off on a purl row.

summer fling

This is a floppy, wide brimmed hat with a lacy, airy crown perfect for a summer day.



Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream, 2 skeins. This is daisy ombres.
Needles: #7 (4.5 mm) and #6 (4 mm) circular needle or dpn
Gauge: not critical, approximately 20 stitches and 26 rows for 4"x4" (10x10 cm)
k=knit, p=purl, yo=yarn over, ssk=slip, slip, knit, kbf=knit back and front, like knit front and back (kfb), but in the opposite order, it helps to pull the stitch off and put back on to keep them in the correct order along the yarn, bo=bind off.

CO 8 into circle in favorite way. I generally just cast on 9 with a long tail, slip the first stitch and later knit it with the last one.
1 and all odd) k around
2) yo, k1 around
4) yo, k2 around
6) yo, k3 around
8) yo, k4 around
10) yo, k5 around
12) yo, ssk, yo, k4 around
14) (yo, ssk)x2, yo, k3 around
16) (yo, ssk)x3, yo, k2 around
18) (yo, ssk)x4, yo, k1 around
20 and even for 3 inches or so) yo, ssk around
22,24,26,28) p around
30) switch needles down one size: kbf, k4 around
32) kbf, k5 around
34) kbf, k6 around
36) kbf, k7 around
38) kbf, k8 around
40) kbf, k9 around
42) kbf, k10 around
44) kbf, k11 around
46) kbf, k12 around
48) kbf, k13 around
50) kbf, k14 around
51) p around
52) kbf, k15 around
53) k around
54) bo 1 (in k), knit on 2, *bo 4, k on 2* around, bo 3 and wrap last stitch around first bo (picot bind off)

This made a bit fuller brim than really needed. I tried going back to 8 increases around while making the hat, but it does not increase quite fast enough on the smaller needles. After 4 or 5 rows of increasing 16 times, it may be better to intersperse some 8 increase rows as so:
40) kbf, k20 around
42) kbf, k21 around
44) kbf, k11 around
46) kbf, k24 around
48) kbf, k25 around
50) kbf, k13 around
51) p around
52) kbf, 28 around
Then finish as above.

Starch can be added to stiffen the brim. Bug buttons were knitted into the fabric as I went for decoration. For these, it's best to decide where they will go before starting.

slouchy summer cap

Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream, 2 skeins. Natural twists has been used here.
Needles: #7 (4.5 mm) circular needle or dpn
Gauge: not critical, approximately 20 stitches and 26 rows for 4"x4" (10x10 cm)
k=knit, p=purl, yo=yarn over, ssk=slip, slip, knit, k2tog=knit two together.

Cast on 8 and join in a circle. (For best results, cast on 8 plus the first loop, slip the loop and knit it with the last stitch such that the stitch is on top.)
1 and all odd rows: k
2: (yo, k1)x8 -- 16 stitches
4: (yo, k2)x8 -- 24 stitches
6: (yo, k3)x8 -- 32 stitches
8: (yo, k4)x8 -- 40 stitches
10: (yo, k5)x8 -- 48 stitches
12: (yo, k6)x8 -- 56 stitches
14: (yo, ssk, yo, k5)x8 -- 64 stitches
16: ((yo, ssk)x2, yo, k4)x8 -- 72 stitches
18: ((yo, ssk)x3, yo, k3)x8 -- 80 stitches
20: ((yo, ssk)x4, yo, k2)x8 -- 88 stitches
22: ((yo, ssk)x4, yo, k2tog, k1)x8 -- 88 stitches
24: ((yo, ssk)x5, yo, k1)x8 -- 96 stitches
26: ((yo, ssk)x5, yo, k2tog)x8 -- 96 stitches
28: ((yo, ssk)x6)x8 -- 96 stitches
Keep up row 28 for each even row for about 6 inches (22 pattern rows) or more. Up to row 28 used about 1/2 skein, so would be possible to do a short one with 1 skein, but wouldn’t be very slouchy at all.
30,32: yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, (yo, ssk)x4 -- 96 stitches
34: yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, k2tog, (yo, ssk)x3 -- 88 stitches
36: yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, k1, (yo, ssk)x3 -- 88 stitches
38,40,42: p
44: cast off in p. Pull the last loop around the first loop to make the bind off continuous.
Sew on decorations if desired.

For a tighter brim, do one more decrease before the garter rows:
38: yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, k1, k2tog, (yo, ssk)x2 -- 80 stitches
40: yo, ssk, yo, k2tog, k2, (yo, ssk)x2 -- 80 stitches
42,44,46: p
48: cast off in p. Be sure not to cast off too tightly.

little purse -- gunslinger style

I don't like to be pocketless and I don't like the idea of carrying a purse, necessitating putting the stuff that should be in pockets down somewhere and possibly leaving it all wherever it was put. I need something at least large enough for a pair of keys.


This is my solution. A sort of pocket that can be worn just as a holster would be.

Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream. About 1 skein of earth ombre (naturals) colorway or pick your own color(s).
Needles: #6 (4mm) 29" circular needle.
#3 (3.25mm) double pointed needles.
Tapestry needle.

Gauge: 20 stitches per 4", but not particularly important.

Mine came out to 4" wide and 4.75" tall with 34" belt section, plus ties, and is in desperate need for a bit of blocking.

Cast on 22 stitches on the larger needles. Knit 5 rows, ~0.75". Cast off 4 stitches in the middle on the next row, then chain 4 stitches on at the middle for the next row for a button hole. Continue knitting back and forth until the work is 2.5" long for the flap. Chain on 24 stitches after going your preferred direction and join in the round to start the main body of the bag. Continue knitting in the round for 4.75". During the last row finishing along the front, slip the first of the front stitches over the last back stitch. Slip the last front stitch over the first back stitch at the very end. Cut the yarn leaving enough to graft the bottom together. I liked the purl side better and turned it to have that on the outside.

Decide on a left or right side pocket then pick up 3 stitches on the inside of the bag on that side such that one stitch is in the first line of stitches that becomes the flap and two are not. Knit these as an I-cord on the smaller needles for 4.5". Cut the yarn but don't bind off.

Cast on 3 stitches and knit another piece of I-cord for 11.5". If a left bag, continue knitting across the three stitches of the end of the first I-cord. If a right bag, knit back picking up the end of the first I-cord. Continue knitting back and forth over the 6 stitches for 2.75" then put the left three stitches on a holder and continue in I-cord to make a tie, ~8". Bind off the end by passing the yarn through each stitch back to front, then front to back. Pick up the other 3 stitches again for a second I-cord of the same length with the same bind off.

Pick up 3 stitches on the other side and knit them in I-cord for 4.5" again. Undo the cast on end of the second I-cord to reveal 3 live stitches and connect them to the first as per the instructions for the other side. Knit back and forth on the 6 stitches for 20" then add two I-cord ties as on the other side.

Start a crochet chain just inside the corner of the pocket and chain it for 2". Cut the yarn leaving a long tail. Do the same to the other side. Pull the yarn ends into the top I-cord with a needle such that they go in with a width between that is smaller than the pocket width and come out at the same hole between stitches. Tie the ends together tightly, then pass the ends back into the I-cord.

Finally, add a button to the center at the level of the button hole. Mine is a yarn button. It is tied using the flat button knot found here, tied from a crochet chain. The end that sticks out the front was tucked under and in and then the two ends knotted together. The crochet is only long enough that the button is made up of the chain but this knot of the ends is only the yarn. The ends were then passed through the knitting and tied again. Many other yarn buttons exist, or any handy button may be used.

Variation: If to be used with pants, the gunslinger style can be completed by adding some long crocheted ties to each corner of the bottom that can be tied around the leg for further stabilization.

Four Cornered Round Hat: Graduation edition

Graduation is next week, at least in my neck of the woods!

If one starts with the idea of the Four Cornered Round Hat of the previous post, it wouldn't be too hard to knit up a mortarboard style hat for graduation. Well, if you're in a school with this particular traditional, anyway. The hard part would be finding the yarn in the right color. Somehow I've not seen the Sugar'n Cream in black although it is available.

Here is a plan for such a hat which will utilize the reverse direction plan:

This would probably take 3-4 skeins of yarn rather than just 2.

Cast on 100 stitches for a 22" head. Join taking care not to twist the cast-on. Knit a few rows straight for 1-1.5" then start decreasing to fit the crown. Place markers every 25 stitches and decrease at the markers every other row until only 14 are left on each side.

It is likely one will need to add a few short rows to the corners to help the circle to square transition. Try: K2, switch direction, S1, K3, switch direction, S1, K to the next marker for each corner. Rather hard to say. Increase on the next row and continue increasing following the instructions for the hat top.

The mortarboard portion needs to go out to about 12". For the gauge, this is when each side reaches 61 stitches but measure to be sure. Purl a row then knit 3 rows and purl another.

The top will eventually need something to hold it stiff. Now is the easiest time to put it in, but that might not fit on the needles still. A bit of coat hanger or some cardboard would be the obvious cheap stiffeners. A lot of starch at the end might do it too. Decrease as instructed for the bottom of the hat but continue until there are 3 stitches on each side. Decrease once more on each side. If needed to fill the middle, knit one more row. Pull the yarn through the live loops at the end.

Four Cornered Round Hat: reverse direction

As I said in the previous post, I realized I knitted the hat in the reverse of the easiest direction. Well, I suspect I did. Here is the plan to reverse the pattern:

Start off by casting on 100 stitches (change in multiples of 8 if needed) of CA. Join the round and knit rows until there is enough solid for the edge. Knit 1/2 row more and start the swirl pattern by starting CC. Continue in the swirl until there are enough straight stitches. Place markers every 25 stitches to mark the sides. When ready, start increasing as instructed for the top of the hat until there are 45 stitches to a side. Purl a row, then knit a few rows and purl another row. Knit the top decreasing as instructed for the bottom. When there are 12 stitches, only decrease once per side. Knit another row if needed to fill in the center and pull the yarn through the live stitches to finish. Weave in the ends.

Knitting into the bottom YO without a twist might not look too bad.

Four Cornered Round Hat

This silly beret style hat is inspired by the knitting technique used for the dizzy dishcloth to knit a square in the round. The colors spiral outward from the center, but this time the yarn overs are knit twisted so there are no holes and it is done in stockinette instead of garter. Twisting the stitch does tighten up the increase rows, so one less row in the middle is needed. The square created this way was not quite as flat, but still fairly flat. When I was searching for a bind off technique I liked, it occurred to me that it would have been easier to knit from the brim instead of the top.

Yarn: Lily Sugar'n Cream. About 1 skein each of sage green (solids) and landscape (stripes) colorways or pick your own colors.
Needles: #6 (4mm) 29" circular needle.
Also needs a tapestry needle at the very end.

Gauge: 20 stitches per 4", but not particularly important.

Abbreviations: K = knit, P = purl, YO = yarn over, K2tg = knit 2 together, SSK = slip 2 (as if to purl), pass them back and knit them together. CA = solid color, CC = contrasting (stripes) color, PM = place marker. The YO are always knitted with a twist: Krt = knit with a right twist, Klt = knit with a left twist.

Pattern:
This is done generally as a magic loop on the circular needle. Cast on 4 stitches of CA then 4 more of CC. This cast on will be unraveled at the end. With CC on the cable, K2 of CC into CA, PM, K2, PM. Move the CC cast on to the needle and the stitches just done to the cable, K2 of CA into CC taking care not to leave a twist. PM, K2. The markers now mark the corners of the hat and a "side" is the space between markers.


Row 2: With CA, K1, YO, K1. Slip the markers as you come to them. K1, YO, K1. With CC, K1, YO, K1, K1, YO, K1.

Row 3: With CC, K1, Krt, K1, K1, Krt, K1 . With CA, K1, Krt, K1, K1, Krt, K1. The twist direction is not actually important on this row. For the right twist, you just knit into the back of the YO.

Row 4 and all even rows on the top of the hat: With CA, K1, YO, K until 1 stitch is left before the marker, YO, K1. Repeat for a second side. With CC, repeat for the last 2 sides.

Row 5 and all odd rows on the top of the hat: With CC, K1, Krt, K until 2 stitches are left before the marker, Klt, K1. Repeat for a second side. With CA, repeat for the last 2 sides.

Continue until finishing the odd row with 45 stitches. This finishes the top of the hat which should be about 9"x9".

Side row 1: P 2 sides with CA. P 2 sides with CC. Continue to carry the markers along.

Row 2-7: K 2 sides with the color on hand. Switch colors at the halfway point and K 2 more sides.

Row 8: P 2 sides with CC. P 2 sides with CA. This finishes the side.

Bottom row 1 and all odd rows while decreasing: With CA K1, K2tog, K until 2 stitches are left before the marker, SSK, K1. Repeat for a 2nd side. Repeat with CC for 2 more sides.

Row 2 and all even rows: With CC, K 2 sides. With CA K the 2 remaining sides.

Decrease until there are 25 stitches remaining on each side to fit a head about 22". K an additional 8 rows continuing to change colors at the middle point. Cut CC and K 8 more rows in CA.

Use a stretchy bind off. The second one on this page fits the character of the hat well but needs to be modified for the round. K1, then pass it back to the left needle. K1 into the same stitch. Now *K1, pass 2 stitches back, K2tog*. Repeat between the asterics until all the stitches are used. Cut the yarn and pull the last stitch through. Thread it around the 2nd stitch knitted in the bind off and back through where it had been. This makes the bind off a continuous loop.

At the top, undo the cast on and one row to leave 4 live loops of each color. Thread the ends through these loops and pull it somewhat tight. Weave in all the ends.


Tip: Eventually the work is large enough to knit in the round normally, but do not stop the magic loop working before its time. If the work is stretched on the needle when knitting in the round, it's not really big enough for that yet.