Jellyfish don't belong on your head: a hat

This is a top down pattern that turns quite a few yards of yarn into a very silly hat.  All kinds of patterning could be tried on it.  I kept thinking about trying some intarsia in the round, but managed to do most of that thinking after it was started as just the basic grey.

The hat is constructed of  Lion Brand Fisherman Wool in oatmeal, natural, and maple tweed knitted on a #7 (4.5 mm) needle.  Magic loop knitting with a cable needle allows using a single needle.  On this needle, it is about 20 stitches 28 rows for 4", but the gauge isn't very critical.  A tapestry needle is needed to finish things off.

For the mantle, take the oatmeal, a rather grey color, or something quite bright:
Cast one 5 stitches.
1) kfb (knit in front and back) around: 10 stitches
2) kfb around: 20 stitches
3 and each row not mentioned) k
4) kfb, k1 to the end (10 repeats)
6) kfb, k2
8) kfb, k3
10) kfb, k4
12) kfb, k5
14) kfb, k6
16) kfb, k7
18) kfb, k8
20) kfb, k9
23) kfb, k1026) kfb, k11
30) kfb, k1234) kfb, k13
knit 12 rows
47) kfb, k14
knit 3 rows
51) kfb, k7 to end (20 repeats)
53) kfb, k8
54) yo, k1
Cast off knitting the yarn overs through the back loop.

Hat interior:
Pick up 100 stitches along the inside with a matching color.  A crochet hook can be helpful for this.

k 6 rows, then change colors (I went to the maple tweed) and knit about 3 inches.
Do some p2, k2 ribbing for another 1.5 inches or so and cast off:
k2, slip the stitches back and k2tog, then k1, slip, k2tog around.  Loop the last loop around the first to complete the circle and weave in.

Tentacles/oral arms:
These are worked while flipping the fabric rather than working back and forth.
Make 10 to 20 to distribute around the hat, I used the natural for these:

Tentacle 1: Cast on 36.
1) k6, kbl30 (knit through the back loop)
2) (k1, yo)x6, k2, (yo, k1)x23, k5
3) k52, w&t (wrap and turn: yarn forward, slip the next stitch, yarn back and slip it again, then flip the fabric)
4) (k1, yo)x46, k6
cast off

Tentacle 2: Cast on 36.
1) k6, kbl30
2) (k1, yo)x6, k2, (yo, k1)x23, k5
3) k52, w&t
4) (k1, yo)x12, k2, (yo, k1)x33, k5
5) k72, w&t
6) (k1, yo)x66, k6
cast off

Tentacle 3: Cast on 28.
1)  k6, kbl22
2) (k1, yo)x6, k2, (yo, k1)x15, k5
3) k36, w&t
4) (k1, yo)x12, k2, (yo, k1)x17, k5
5) k40, w&t
6) (k1, yo)x34, k6
cast off

Attach these around the hat at the color change using the tail from the cast on.

Weave in the ends and the hat is ready.

minor octopus hat

I knit a fish hat that I gave to a friend, but she soon lost it to her husband who insists that it is his.  I decided to knit something for her that he can be jealous of because he's only got a fish to go on his head.  I decided to get an octopus for her.  Figuring it was a simple thing, I looked at the patterns and found nothing very good there, so I just started off on my own.  I plan to put some sort of mantle on it, too, but the result pre-mantle seems suitable for your more conservative octopus hat wearer.

 

I used some Lion Brand Fisherman's Wool (oak tweed) on #7 (4.5 mm) cable needle.  The gauge is about 5 stitches and 7 rows per inch each way.

k = knit; p = purl; k2tog = knit two together; ssk = slip two stitches singly and knit them together (slip, slip, knit)

Cast on 88 stitches and join in the round.  Knit 3 rows.  Do k2, p2 ribbing for about an inch, then knit for another 3 inches.  At this point it may be desirable to change color.  Put the last 77 stitches on a stitch holder (such as a smaller cable needle) to start on the octopus legs, starting on the 11 stitches left.

Legs:
1) k 11 stitches, knit on 7 more and join in the round.
2) k
3) k
4) k2, p2, k3, p2, k9
5) same as 4
6) k
7) repeat 3-6 11 times (giving 12 sets of purl bumps)
8) k5, k2tog, k4, ssk, k3, k2tog
9) k2, p2, k2, p2, k7
10) same as 9
11) k
12) k
13) repeat 9-11
14) k2, ssk, k2, k2tog, k3, ssk, k2
15) k3, p2, k7
16) same as 15
17) k
18) k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1
19) k2, p2, k5
20) same as 19
21) k
22) k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1
23) k
24) ssk, k2tog, k2tog
25) draw the yarn through the last 3 loops and weave in the end.

Continue making legs until all the loops are used.  Pick up the 7 knitted on stitches on each leg giving 56 stitches.
1) slip the first stitch to next to the last stitch, k5, pick up the yarn between the legs from the last round of knitting all the way around, give it a twist and put it on the left needle, then knit it together with the next two stitches.  Continue until the row is finished.  (k5, make the stitch, k3tog)
2) k
3) k4, ssk around
4) k
5) slip the first to the last, k3, k2tog
6) k
7) k2, ssk
8) k
9) slip the first stitch, k1, k2tog
10) ssk
Draw the yarn through the last 8 stitches and weave in all the ends.

Rabbit hat

Why is it that babies get all the fun hats?  Surely adults need to have fun too.  Is it because they worry about what others will think of them if they have wild things?  I couldn't find a rabbit themed hat, so I had to figure it out myself.  Now I've got a hat suitable for people nick-named "Rabbit" and drivers of Volkswagen Golfs, but probably not Playboy bunnies.

 

Yarn: Any ol' worsted thing, I used Loops & Threads Silky Soft in aran.  It was much less than one 6 oz skein.
Needles: #7 (4.5 mm) circular needle (for magic loop) and one extra needle the same size or smaller

Gauge: not critical, approximately what is says on the yarn (18 per 4")
k=knit, k2tog=knit two together, k3tog=knit three together: slip 1 stitch, k2tog, then pass the slipped stitch over, ssk=slip two stitches and knit them together, yo=yarn over

First, knit a couple ears.  The big floppy rabbit ears in a size suitable for an adult hat are already blogged.  Then knit your favorite hat and attach the ears.  I wanted something a little bit fancy and fit with the rabbit theme and wasn't looking for something all that warm, so made a carrot edging and used a simple lace to decorate the main portion of the hat.

Knit 4 carrots for the edging.  The carrot edging is also previously blogged.  The really brave will do them in orange and green.  Connect them into a loop without twisting and pick up 90 stitches in knit along the flat edge and start knitting:
k 4 rows
lace:
1) *yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1*
2) k
3) *k1, yo, k3tog, yo, k2*
4) k
Repeat these rows a total of 4 times
k 8 rows, then decrease with *k8, k2tog*
k 4 rows and decrease with k2, k2tog, *k7, k2tog*, k5
k 2 rows and then k3, k2tog, *k6, k2tog*, k3
k 1 row then *k5, k2tog*
k 1 row then k1, k2tog, *k4, k2tog*, k3
k 1 row then *k3, k2tog*
k 1 row then *k2tog, k2*
k 1 row then *k2tog, k1*
*k2tog* and pull the end of the yarn through the last 9 stitches.

This makes a fairly unpatterned top for the hat.  For locating ears, I put mine toward the back a little bit.  Here's a photo for help in locating the ears and to see how the top comes out:

I picked up the stitches along the carrots so that they hand down from the hat.  They could be picked up so that they sort of fold over the lower section of the hat in which case some of the plain rows after the lace should be moved to before the lace so that the carrots stop before the lace starts.  There's more photos of the hat on my Ravelry project page.

Mighty rabbit ears

Eventually, a hat to attach them to, but first Big Ears!  They're done in the round using a magic loop.  Ears and hat will both come out of the same 6 oz skein.

Yarn: Any ol' worsted thing, I used Loops & Threads Silky Soft in aran.
Needles: #7 (4.5 mm) circular needle (for magic loop) or dpn
Gauge: not critical, approximately what is says on the yarn
k=knit, p=purl, m1L=make one left, m1R=make one right, ssk=slip, slip, knit; k2tog=knit 2 together, w&t=wrap and turn
Note that I do not flip my work over, merely reverse direction, so all instructions are for the right side.

Cast on 4 stitches:
1) k4
2) k1, m1L, m1R, k3
3) k5, m1L, m1R, k1
4) k1, m1L, k2, m1R, k5
5) k7, m1L, p2, m1R, k1
6) k8, p2, k2
7) k1, m1L, k4, m1R, k3, p2, k2
8) k9, m1L, p4, m1R, k2
9,10) k10, p4, k2
11) k1, m1L, k6, m1R, k3, p4, k2
12) k11, m1L, p6, m1R, k1
13-15) k12, p6, k2
16) k1, m1L, k8, m1R, k3, p6, k2
17) k13, m1L, p8, m1R, k1
18-21) k14, p8, k2
22) k1, m1L, k10, m1R, k3, p8, k2
23) k15, m1L, p10, m1R, k1
24-28) k16, p10, k2
29) k1, m1L, k12, m1R, k3, p10, k2
30) k17, m1L, p12, m1R, k1
31-38) k18, p12, k2
39) k1, m1L, k14, m1R, k3, p12, k2
40) k19, m1L, p14, m1R, k1
41-51) k20, p14, k2
52) k1, m1L, k16, m1R, k3, p14, k2
53) k21, m1L, p16, m1R, k1
54-71) k22, p16, k2
72) k17, w&t, k14, w&t, k16, p16, k2
73-74) k22, p16, k2
75) k21, ssk, p14, k2tog, k1
76) k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k3, p14, k2
77) k20, p14, k2
78) k19, ssk, p12, k2tog, k1
79) k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k3, p12, k2
80) k13, w&t, k10, w&t, k15, p12, k2
81) k17, ssk, p10, k2tog, k1
82) k1, ssk, k10, k2tog, k3, p10, k2
83) k16, p10, k2
84) k15, ssk, p8, k2tog, k1
85) k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k3, p8, k2
86) k9, w&t, k6, w&t, k11, p8, k2
Cast off in p.

After doing short rows, always remember to pick up your wrap in the next row.  Once the first is finished, it's time to do it all over again for a second.  For the sake of symmetry, I did the second from left to right (the first was right to left).  The same effect can be achieved by knitting along the back section of the work instead of the front.  Since this is knitting the wrong side, k and p are swapped.

Octopus toy

I thought of someone to give it to, so I can make a big octopus. Here it is finished and swimming along on the couch.


I started with the legs. The octopus legs are based on the coiled tube seen here. They need to be stuffed every inch or two while knitting. Starting at the tip of the tentacle:
Bind on 3 stitches. This is knit in the round.
Row 1: k1, yo, k2.
Row 2: k1, yo, kt (knit with stitch twisted), k to end.
Repeat row 2 until there are 12 stitches including the yo.
Row 10: k1, yo, kt, k3, k2tog, k5.
Repeat row 10 until the leg is long enough then cut the yarn and pass it through the stitches to hold them for later.

Twisting the other direction:
Bind on 3 stitches.
Row 1: k2, yo, k1.
Row 2: k until the yo, kt, yo, k1.
Repeat row 2 until there are 12 stitches.
Row 10: k5, k2tog, k3, kt, yo, k1.
Repeat row 10 until long enough then hold the stitches.


The twist wasn't the same size for each of these even though one is the reverse of the other. To complete 8 legs, I knit 2 each in each direction then arranged them how I liked with the smaller twists to the front and back and the bigger twists to the side. Join the legs together simply looping the yarn twice through each of 3 stitches on each leg.


Each leg has some stitches that look straight and some that seem to be on a diagonal. The legs are arranged so that the straight stitches are centered to the outside of the circle (which will become the top of the octopus) and the diagonal stitches are to the inside (which will be the bottom.)

Once connected into a circle, place the 2 unused stitches of the bottom plus one used stitch on either side on each leg onto knitting needles for 32 stitches. Starting between the back legs:
Row 1: k to end
Row 2: k3, (k2tog, k6) x3, k2tog, k2.
Row 3: with last stitch of row 2 (k2tog, k5) x4.
Row 4: k3, (k2tog, k4) x3, k2tog, k1.
Row 5: (k2tog, k3) x4.
Row 6: k2, (k2tog, k2) x3, k2tog
Row 7: (k2tog, k1) x3, k2tog.
Bind off the last 4 stitches by passing the yarn through each once front to back and once back to front and tying tightly. Knots on the inside will not show.

Place the unused stitches of the top on needles together with one on each side of the used stitches for 48 stitches. Starting between the back legs:
Row 1: k to end.
Row 2: (k6, pm (place marker), yo, k6, pm) x4.
Row 3: (yo after marker, k to 2nd marker) x4.
Row 4: k to 1st marker, (yo before marker, k to 2nd marker) x3, yo, k to 1st marker.
Row 5: (yo before marker, k to 2nd marker) x4.
Row 6: k to 1st marker, (yo after marker, k to 2nd marker) x3, yo, k to 1st marker.
Row 7-9: repeat row 4-6.
Row 10 and for a few rows: k80.

Decreases aren't done symmetrically. Instead, the middle is decreased for a few rows, then decreases are added to either side for a few rows. This continues until there are eight decreases. The decreases alternate between k2tog and ssk so that the decrease does not create a spiral. Here is an illustration showing the decreases. The arrow marks the middle (front) and the bar marks the back where rows start. On the 1st 3 decrease rows, the red decreases are made, on the 2nd 3, the blue, then green, purple, cyan.


Row 1 (red): k39, k2tog, k39.
Row 2 and all even rows: k.
Row 3: k39, ssk, k38.
Row 5: k38, k2tog, k38.
Row 7 (blue): k25, ssk, k11, ssk, k11, ssk, k24.
Row 9: k24, k2tog, k10, k2tog, k10, k2tog, k24.
Row 11: k24, ssk, k9, ssk, k9, ssk, k23.
Row 13 (green): k13, k2tog, (k8, k2tog) x4, k13.
Row 15: k13, ssk, (k7, ssk) x4, k12.
Row 17: k12, k2tog, (k6, k2tog) x4, k12.
(Might be time to think about getting the head stuffed.)
Row 19 (purple): k5, ssk, (k5, ssk) x6, k4.
Row 21: k4, k2tog, (k4, k2tog) x6, k4.
Row 23: k4, ssk, (k3, ssk) x6, k2.
Row 25 (cyan): k2tog (includes last stitch from previous round), (k2, k2tog) x8, k2.
Row 27: ssk, (k1, ssk) x8, k1.
Row 29: k2tog x8.
Finish by drawing the yarn through the loops once each direction and pulling tight. Knot and finish.

The yarn and needles don't matter. The above octopus uses about half a skein worth (total) of Caron Simply Soft in persimmon and sage on a set of #3 dpn, which are much smaller than recommended for this yarn. The legs each have a different design of these two colors. Once solid of each, and one each split in half alternating in opposite ways. One is a swirl (alternating every row), one alternates every 4 rows, one alternates every 16 rows. The last starts with 3 rows sage, then 4 rows persimmon, then 5 sage and so on increasing in number each time.