partial octal -- 3/4 shawl with shaping

This is a shawl with a little bit of shaping for the shoulders that makes a 3/4 circle.  I made a start at it, but am realizing that I cannot finish it with the meager amount of bulky yarn I have.  I draped what I did knit of it over my shoulders, and was surprised how nice it sits there, so decided to post the pattern.  One day I'll have the 6-8 balls this will take, but currently I'm thinking of what to do with what I have instead.

Using Wool-Ease Thick & Quick or some other super bulky yarn on #13 (9 mm) cable needle giving a gauge of 9 stitches and 12 rows to 4" (10 mm).  Requires doing short rows.  Wraps should be picked up, but I will not be noting where they are.  I changed color at row 20, but that could happen before or after or not at all as desired.  I knit only to row 24.

k = knit; p = purl; w&t = wrap and turn; m1 = make one: do a yo, in the next row knit this stitch twisted, I usually k through the back of the loop, but at the second yo by the arms I twist it the other direction.

1) Cast on 104 stitches and k a row
2) k45, m1, k2, m1, k5, m1, k5, m1, k2, m1, k45
3) k to end
4) k44, m1, k4, m1, k7, m1, k6, m1, k4, m1, k44
5 and all odd to 11) k2, p until 2 are left, k2
6) k43, m1, k6, m1, k8, m1, k8, m1, k6, m1, k43
8) k42, m1, k8, m1, k9, m1, k10, m1, k8, m1, k42
10) k41, m1, k10, m1, k11, m1, k11, m1, k10, m1, k41
12) k40, m1, k12, m1, k13, m1, k12, m1, k12, m1, k40
13) k2, p50, w&t; k10, w&t; p50, w&t; k10, w&t; p50, k2
14) k39, m1, k14, m1, k14, m1, k14, m1, k14, m1, k39
15) k2, p50, w&t; k10, w&t; p55, w&t; k10, w&t; p48, w&t (4 left at the end)
16) k34, m1, k16, m1, k15, m1, k16, m1, k16, m1, k34, w&t
17) p until 8 are left, w&t
18) k29, m1, k18, m1, k17, m1, k17, m1, k18, m1, k29, w&t
19) p until 12 are left, w&t
20) k24, m1, k20, m1, k19, m1, k18, m1, k20, m1, k24, w&t
21) p until 16 are left, w&t
22) k19, m1, k22, m1, k20, m1, k20, m1, k22, m1, k19, w&t
23) p until 20 are left, w&t
24) k14, m1, k24, m1, k21, m1, k22, m1, k24, m1, k14, w&t
25) p until 24 are left, w&t
26) k9, m1, k26, m1, k23, m1, k23, m1, k26, m1, k9, w&t
27) p until 20 are left, w&t
28) k4, m1, k28, m1, k25, m1, k24, m1, k25, m1, k4, w&t
29) p until 2 are left, picking up the wraps, k2
30) k31, m1, k30, m1, k26, m1, k26, m1, k30, m1, k31
31 and all odd) again like 5
32) k30, m1, k32, m1, k27, m1, k28, m1, k32, m1, k30
and continue on in this pattern of 6 knitted sections where the 1st and 6th are always less by 1 stitch, the 2nd and 5th are more by 2 stitches, and the 3rd and 4th increase by 3 shared between the two.  The stitch that grows by 2 alternates every 2nd increase.  End the increases with the row starting k2, m1.  If more length is desired, add a few rows of k and finally end with 4 garter rows and bind off not too tightly.

fruit basket

I am having visions of a soft fruit basket of cotton yarn. It would have a square bottom and an octagon top. Well, maybe more of an octagon middle since by the top it might be quite circular unless given a bit of wire or something to keep the corners.

The plan, I think, starts with choosing a finished circumference in stitches that is an odd number time eight. The knitting would start with the same squares as before for the bottom. When the number of stitches is half the planned complete number, stop increasing on half of the increases while the others start increasing to the other side. I've been thinking that the increases should center around opposing sides, but perhaps on the same side of each edge would be better. And the more I ponder which is better the more I think it won't really hit an octagon shape at all. The first will go more to a boat shape and the second will continue to be square but will twist a bit as it goes. It really doesn't even need to have the increases change sides.

For a more rounded project, one could start a little earlier in the shaping and just decrease the frequency of increases along the lines that will be stopped. Patterning could be used to emphasis or even generate the octagonal shape, if that is desired...

It's a work in progress, of course, until something has been knit. And then there's always the second one.

rectangle piece

Squares are alright, but rectangles are more useful pieces for putting together into a whole something. This is a plan for a rectangle in the round on a circular needle.

Use a figure eight cast-on on the cable of the circular needle for enough stitches for the desired length minus the width plus two. Knit the first stitch (2 stitches), increase (yarn over) and continue knitting until the last second (third) to last, increase (yarn over) and knit the last. Increase (yarn over), and repeat for the other side of the figure eight. Knit the next row. Continue knitting with two increases around the corner stitch(es) every other row like in the square.

A towel or place mat would be made by just binding off, or the stitches could be left live to be caught up for some other part of whatever it will become. As stated, there could be something funny going on at one corner. Following the parenthesis instructions might fix it but leaves rounder corners as seen in the square.

In reverse, enough stitches could be cast on for the perimeter of the project and reductions taken as needed at the corners, two every other row. When the center is reached, graft it like the toe of a sock. Grafting leaves the yarn at the middle following the same path as the figure eight cast on.

It would be highly recommended to mark the corners either way. It is easy to misplace a stitch one way or the other while working.

Four Cornered Round Hat: Graduation edition

Graduation is next week, at least in my neck of the woods!

If one starts with the idea of the Four Cornered Round Hat of the previous post, it wouldn't be too hard to knit up a mortarboard style hat for graduation. Well, if you're in a school with this particular traditional, anyway. The hard part would be finding the yarn in the right color. Somehow I've not seen the Sugar'n Cream in black although it is available.

Here is a plan for such a hat which will utilize the reverse direction plan:

This would probably take 3-4 skeins of yarn rather than just 2.

Cast on 100 stitches for a 22" head. Join taking care not to twist the cast-on. Knit a few rows straight for 1-1.5" then start decreasing to fit the crown. Place markers every 25 stitches and decrease at the markers every other row until only 14 are left on each side.

It is likely one will need to add a few short rows to the corners to help the circle to square transition. Try: K2, switch direction, S1, K3, switch direction, S1, K to the next marker for each corner. Rather hard to say. Increase on the next row and continue increasing following the instructions for the hat top.

The mortarboard portion needs to go out to about 12". For the gauge, this is when each side reaches 61 stitches but measure to be sure. Purl a row then knit 3 rows and purl another.

The top will eventually need something to hold it stiff. Now is the easiest time to put it in, but that might not fit on the needles still. A bit of coat hanger or some cardboard would be the obvious cheap stiffeners. A lot of starch at the end might do it too. Decrease as instructed for the bottom of the hat but continue until there are 3 stitches on each side. Decrease once more on each side. If needed to fill the middle, knit one more row. Pull the yarn through the live loops at the end.

Four Cornered Round Hat: reverse direction

As I said in the previous post, I realized I knitted the hat in the reverse of the easiest direction. Well, I suspect I did. Here is the plan to reverse the pattern:

Start off by casting on 100 stitches (change in multiples of 8 if needed) of CA. Join the round and knit rows until there is enough solid for the edge. Knit 1/2 row more and start the swirl pattern by starting CC. Continue in the swirl until there are enough straight stitches. Place markers every 25 stitches to mark the sides. When ready, start increasing as instructed for the top of the hat until there are 45 stitches to a side. Purl a row, then knit a few rows and purl another row. Knit the top decreasing as instructed for the bottom. When there are 12 stitches, only decrease once per side. Knit another row if needed to fill in the center and pull the yarn through the live stitches to finish. Weave in the ends.

Knitting into the bottom YO without a twist might not look too bad.