Jellyfish don't belong on your head: a hat

This is a top down pattern that turns quite a few yards of yarn into a very silly hat.  All kinds of patterning could be tried on it.  I kept thinking about trying some intarsia in the round, but managed to do most of that thinking after it was started as just the basic grey.

The hat is constructed of  Lion Brand Fisherman Wool in oatmeal, natural, and maple tweed knitted on a #7 (4.5 mm) needle.  Magic loop knitting with a cable needle allows using a single needle.  On this needle, it is about 20 stitches 28 rows for 4", but the gauge isn't very critical.  A tapestry needle is needed to finish things off.

For the mantle, take the oatmeal, a rather grey color, or something quite bright:
Cast one 5 stitches.
1) kfb (knit in front and back) around: 10 stitches
2) kfb around: 20 stitches
3 and each row not mentioned) k
4) kfb, k1 to the end (10 repeats)
6) kfb, k2
8) kfb, k3
10) kfb, k4
12) kfb, k5
14) kfb, k6
16) kfb, k7
18) kfb, k8
20) kfb, k9
23) kfb, k1026) kfb, k11
30) kfb, k1234) kfb, k13
knit 12 rows
47) kfb, k14
knit 3 rows
51) kfb, k7 to end (20 repeats)
53) kfb, k8
54) yo, k1
Cast off knitting the yarn overs through the back loop.

Hat interior:
Pick up 100 stitches along the inside with a matching color.  A crochet hook can be helpful for this.

k 6 rows, then change colors (I went to the maple tweed) and knit about 3 inches.
Do some p2, k2 ribbing for another 1.5 inches or so and cast off:
k2, slip the stitches back and k2tog, then k1, slip, k2tog around.  Loop the last loop around the first to complete the circle and weave in.

Tentacles/oral arms:
These are worked while flipping the fabric rather than working back and forth.
Make 10 to 20 to distribute around the hat, I used the natural for these:

Tentacle 1: Cast on 36.
1) k6, kbl30 (knit through the back loop)
2) (k1, yo)x6, k2, (yo, k1)x23, k5
3) k52, w&t (wrap and turn: yarn forward, slip the next stitch, yarn back and slip it again, then flip the fabric)
4) (k1, yo)x46, k6
cast off

Tentacle 2: Cast on 36.
1) k6, kbl30
2) (k1, yo)x6, k2, (yo, k1)x23, k5
3) k52, w&t
4) (k1, yo)x12, k2, (yo, k1)x33, k5
5) k72, w&t
6) (k1, yo)x66, k6
cast off

Tentacle 3: Cast on 28.
1)  k6, kbl22
2) (k1, yo)x6, k2, (yo, k1)x15, k5
3) k36, w&t
4) (k1, yo)x12, k2, (yo, k1)x17, k5
5) k40, w&t
6) (k1, yo)x34, k6
cast off

Attach these around the hat at the color change using the tail from the cast on.

Weave in the ends and the hat is ready.

minor octopus hat

I knit a fish hat that I gave to a friend, but she soon lost it to her husband who insists that it is his.  I decided to knit something for her that he can be jealous of because he's only got a fish to go on his head.  I decided to get an octopus for her.  Figuring it was a simple thing, I looked at the patterns and found nothing very good there, so I just started off on my own.  I plan to put some sort of mantle on it, too, but the result pre-mantle seems suitable for your more conservative octopus hat wearer.

 

I used some Lion Brand Fisherman's Wool (oak tweed) on #7 (4.5 mm) cable needle.  The gauge is about 5 stitches and 7 rows per inch each way.

k = knit; p = purl; k2tog = knit two together; ssk = slip two stitches singly and knit them together (slip, slip, knit)

Cast on 88 stitches and join in the round.  Knit 3 rows.  Do k2, p2 ribbing for about an inch, then knit for another 3 inches.  At this point it may be desirable to change color.  Put the last 77 stitches on a stitch holder (such as a smaller cable needle) to start on the octopus legs, starting on the 11 stitches left.

Legs:
1) k 11 stitches, knit on 7 more and join in the round.
2) k
3) k
4) k2, p2, k3, p2, k9
5) same as 4
6) k
7) repeat 3-6 11 times (giving 12 sets of purl bumps)
8) k5, k2tog, k4, ssk, k3, k2tog
9) k2, p2, k2, p2, k7
10) same as 9
11) k
12) k
13) repeat 9-11
14) k2, ssk, k2, k2tog, k3, ssk, k2
15) k3, p2, k7
16) same as 15
17) k
18) k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1
19) k2, p2, k5
20) same as 19
21) k
22) k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1
23) k
24) ssk, k2tog, k2tog
25) draw the yarn through the last 3 loops and weave in the end.

Continue making legs until all the loops are used.  Pick up the 7 knitted on stitches on each leg giving 56 stitches.
1) slip the first stitch to next to the last stitch, k5, pick up the yarn between the legs from the last round of knitting all the way around, give it a twist and put it on the left needle, then knit it together with the next two stitches.  Continue until the row is finished.  (k5, make the stitch, k3tog)
2) k
3) k4, ssk around
4) k
5) slip the first to the last, k3, k2tog
6) k
7) k2, ssk
8) k
9) slip the first stitch, k1, k2tog
10) ssk
Draw the yarn through the last 8 stitches and weave in all the ends.

partial octal -- 3/4 shawl with shaping

This is a shawl with a little bit of shaping for the shoulders that makes a 3/4 circle.  I made a start at it, but am realizing that I cannot finish it with the meager amount of bulky yarn I have.  I draped what I did knit of it over my shoulders, and was surprised how nice it sits there, so decided to post the pattern.  One day I'll have the 6-8 balls this will take, but currently I'm thinking of what to do with what I have instead.

Using Wool-Ease Thick & Quick or some other super bulky yarn on #13 (9 mm) cable needle giving a gauge of 9 stitches and 12 rows to 4" (10 mm).  Requires doing short rows.  Wraps should be picked up, but I will not be noting where they are.  I changed color at row 20, but that could happen before or after or not at all as desired.  I knit only to row 24.

k = knit; p = purl; w&t = wrap and turn; m1 = make one: do a yo, in the next row knit this stitch twisted, I usually k through the back of the loop, but at the second yo by the arms I twist it the other direction.

1) Cast on 104 stitches and k a row
2) k45, m1, k2, m1, k5, m1, k5, m1, k2, m1, k45
3) k to end
4) k44, m1, k4, m1, k7, m1, k6, m1, k4, m1, k44
5 and all odd to 11) k2, p until 2 are left, k2
6) k43, m1, k6, m1, k8, m1, k8, m1, k6, m1, k43
8) k42, m1, k8, m1, k9, m1, k10, m1, k8, m1, k42
10) k41, m1, k10, m1, k11, m1, k11, m1, k10, m1, k41
12) k40, m1, k12, m1, k13, m1, k12, m1, k12, m1, k40
13) k2, p50, w&t; k10, w&t; p50, w&t; k10, w&t; p50, k2
14) k39, m1, k14, m1, k14, m1, k14, m1, k14, m1, k39
15) k2, p50, w&t; k10, w&t; p55, w&t; k10, w&t; p48, w&t (4 left at the end)
16) k34, m1, k16, m1, k15, m1, k16, m1, k16, m1, k34, w&t
17) p until 8 are left, w&t
18) k29, m1, k18, m1, k17, m1, k17, m1, k18, m1, k29, w&t
19) p until 12 are left, w&t
20) k24, m1, k20, m1, k19, m1, k18, m1, k20, m1, k24, w&t
21) p until 16 are left, w&t
22) k19, m1, k22, m1, k20, m1, k20, m1, k22, m1, k19, w&t
23) p until 20 are left, w&t
24) k14, m1, k24, m1, k21, m1, k22, m1, k24, m1, k14, w&t
25) p until 24 are left, w&t
26) k9, m1, k26, m1, k23, m1, k23, m1, k26, m1, k9, w&t
27) p until 20 are left, w&t
28) k4, m1, k28, m1, k25, m1, k24, m1, k25, m1, k4, w&t
29) p until 2 are left, picking up the wraps, k2
30) k31, m1, k30, m1, k26, m1, k26, m1, k30, m1, k31
31 and all odd) again like 5
32) k30, m1, k32, m1, k27, m1, k28, m1, k32, m1, k30
and continue on in this pattern of 6 knitted sections where the 1st and 6th are always less by 1 stitch, the 2nd and 5th are more by 2 stitches, and the 3rd and 4th increase by 3 shared between the two.  The stitch that grows by 2 alternates every 2nd increase.  End the increases with the row starting k2, m1.  If more length is desired, add a few rows of k and finally end with 4 garter rows and bind off not too tightly.

wide brimmed hat

This hat has a stiff brim supported by wire.  Because of this, it has a very large brim without much yarn used.  Since it is knit, the sunlight is only partly blocked.  It is sized for an extra large head over 24" (but I'll put the modification for a normal 22" head in parenthesis).

This one happens to be knit in Caron Simply Soft in the color limelight on a #8 (5 mm) cable needle.  This gave a gauge of 18 stitches to 4".  It took a bit over 100 yards (less than half the skein).  I also used a second cable with smaller needles in the provisional cast on.  An 16 gauge galvanized wire (about 50") holds up the brim.

k = knit
k2tog = knit two together
yo, s1 = yarn over, slip one
k2tbl = knit two through the back loop

Provisionally cast on 216 (198) stitches.  I used a figure 8 cast on with the cable of the extra cable needle.  Join in a circle being careful not to twist and k 2 rows then knit the next row together with the live loops from the provisional cast on.  This forms the tube in which the wire will sit.
1) k22, k2tog (k20, k2tog) around
2 and each even row) k
3) k21, k2tog (k19, k2tog)
5) k20, k2tog (k18, k2tog)
7) k19, k2tog (k17, k2tog)
9) k18, k2tog (k16, k2tog)
11) k17, k2tog (k15, k2tog)
13) k16, k2tog (k14, k2tog)
15) k15, k2tog (k13, k2tog)
17) k14, k2tog (k12, k2tog)
19) k13, k2tog (k11, k2tog)
21) k12, k2tog (k10, k2tog)
23) k11, k2tog (k9, k2tog)
For the hatband shown, repeat these two rows:
1) yo, s1 around
2) k2tbl around (the yo and slipped stitch together)
Go for about 6 repeats.  Continue knitting until there are 3" or so from the brim (my hat is a little too shallow) then p a row and continue as:
1) k10, k2tog (k8, k2tog)
2 and each even row) k
3) k9, k2tog (go to step 7)
5) k8, k2tog
7) k7, k2tog
9) k6, k2tog
11) k5, k2tog
13) k4, k2tog
15) k3, k2tog
17) k2, k2tog
19) k1, k2tog
21) k2tog
22) pull yarn through the final 8 stitches and weave in the ends.  Thread the wire through the sleeve at the edge and tie the ends to the side of the wire with thread wrapped a few times then tied.